Pat ribs dry. Season generously on all sides with salt and pepper. Refrigerate uncovered for up to 2 days. Remove from refrigerator while you prepare the grill so the ribs start to come to room temperature. Soak wood chips in water to cover for at least 30 minutes.
Prepare a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to high. When the coals are covered with a gray ash, arrange them on 2 sides of the grill leaving the center empty. Place a drip pan on the bottom of the grill and place the cooking grate on top. If using a gas grill, turn off the burners in the center of the grill and turn the other burners to medium.
Just before you put the meat on the grill, nestle a few wood chunks among the hot coals. Put ribs on grill over the drip pan (not directly over the heat). Cover grill and cook, turning once, until fork-tender and juices run clear, about 40 minutes for the country-style ribs or 1 1/4 hours for the baby back ribs.
Generously baste all sides of the ribs with the barbecue sauce. Grill covered until meat is nicely glazed, 10 to 15 minutes more. Remove from grill; let rest 5 minutes before serving.
Nutrition information per serving: