Reach for potatoes for these homey Irish dishes

When correctly made, mashed potatoes — the essential peasant dish — are truly sublime.

Pound in sizzled leeks, a little salt and pepper, and the creation goes well beyond the sum of its humble parts. In Northern Ireland, this variation on mashed potatoes is known as "champ," thought to be derived from the Old English "chomp," or "crush." It's also called "poundie" because years ago, mashed potatoes were bashed and pounded with a long wooden baton.

Add sautéed cabbage and kale, and you have colcannon. Cooks create seasonal variations with sautéed nettles, garlic, watercress, fresh peas and parsley.

Take those leftover "poundies" and shape them into patties, and you have what in the British Isles is called "bubble and squeak," named for the sound the cakes make when hitting the frying pan.

Try that with butter or olive oil or bacon fat (or turn to duck fat, the best!). Top them with a little smoked salmon, crisped prosciutto or bacon, roasted red pepper or grilled shrimp, and you have a feast.

This recipe is really a two-for-one dish. Mashed potatoes one night, pancakes the next. Be sure to use the buttery-fleshed Yukon Gold potatoes that have just enough starch to fluff up a bit. Some cooks like to use skim milk, but whole milk makes the creamiest mash. It's traditional to serve those in a mound with a fat pat of good butter pooling in its center.

You can store the "chomp" for several days in a covered bowl in the refrigerator before you make the potato pancakes. Bring them to room temperature for easier handling before you begin.

Note: Serve as a side to roast chicken, pork or lamb, or use as the basis for potato pancakes. Use buttery-fleshed Yukon Gold potatoes that have enough starch to fluff up nicely. To clean leeks, remove and discard the dark green portion of the leek and cut off the roots. Slice the white part in half and run the cut side under cold water until clean. Pat the leek dry with a clean kitchen towel and chop or dice. The recipe is easily doubled. From Beth Dooley.

• 6 to 8 potatoes (see Note)

• Water to cover

• 1 1/2 c. whole milk

• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more for serving

• 1/2 c. chopped parsley

• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions

Scrub the potatoes and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and allow to cool enough to peel and cut into chunks and return to the cooking pot. Add the milk and bring to a boil, then quickly reduce heat and mash the potatoes so that they absorb all the milk.

While the potatoes are cooking, melt the butter in a skillet over medium high heat and add the leeks. Sauté until they are tender and beginning to turn a light brown, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories270Fat10 gSodium45 mg

Carbohydrates41 gSaturated fat6 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein6 gCholesterol26 mgDietary fiber5 g

Exchanges per serving: 2 ½ starch, 2 fat.

Note: From Beth Dooley.

• Champ (see recipe above)

• 1/4 c. flour

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1 tsp. pepper

• 1 tbsp. vegetable oil

Directions

Whisk together the flour, salt and pepper.

Shape the champ into pancakes about ½ inch to 1 inch thick. Dust with the seasoned flour and set aside on a parchment-lined sheet.

Melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the potato pancakes until lightly browned on one side, about 3 to 5 minutes, then carefully flip and cook on the other side until lightly browned and heated through, about 3 to 5 minutes. Place the cooked pancakes on a lightly buttered or parchment-lined baking sheet and hold in a 300-degree oven until ready to serve.

Calories340Fat16 gSodium470 mg

Carbohydrates45 gSaturated fat9 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein6 gCholesterol37 mgDietary fiber5 g

Exchanges per serving: 2 starch, 1 carbs, 3 fat.