Ramps kick off spring vegetable hunting season in Minnesota

If you're walking in the woods, you'll probably smell ramps before you spot them: They announce themselves with the pungent, earthy and unmistakable scent of garlic.

The wild leeks are among the first local foods to appear in our elusive and unpredictable spring. Members of the lily family, ramps refuse to grow in domesticated gardens and must be hunted in the woods. Luckily for me, I have friends who know where to find these plants that carpet the forest floor.

At farmers markets and co-ops, you'll find local ramps that have been harvested as whole plants with purply white ends and small bulbs. These are wonderful roasted or sautéed, used as scallions or fresh garlic. But when I'm foraging, I prefer to simply snip the ramps at the base of the leaves to keep the plant intact so it will return the next spring.

In the kitchen, ramps' spicy, garlicky floral notes work to amplify other flavors in any savory dish. I whir them into pesto and butter, and toss the chopped leaves into sautés, stir-fries and scrambled eggs. The chopped leaves remind me of strong chives when chopped to scatter over grilled steak or pork chops and salads.

Ramp butter will keep several weeks in the refrigerator in a covered container or for months in the freezer. It's fabulous tossed with pasta, swirled into rice, slathered over roast potatoes and simply spread on a crusty baguette. Toss ramp pesto with pasta and gnocchi, drizzle over roasted fish or steak, and spread it on bruschetta topped with a young cheese and tomatoes.

After our long, drab winter, ramps are a delightful fresh, green taste of spring.

Makes 1 pound of butter.

• 1 lb. ramp leaves or whole ramps, trimmed

• 1 tbsp. lemon zest

• 1 tbsp. lemon juice

• 2 tsp. fresh thyme

• 1 lb. (4 sticks) unsalted butter

Directions

If using whole ramps, trim the ends and clean them well under cold water, drain and pat dry. If using leaves, simply rinse under cold water, drain and thoroughly dry.

Place the ramps, lemon zest, lemon juice, thyme and butter into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until the ramps are blended. Remove and pack into jars with a lid. Store in the refrigerator or freezer.

Serves 4.

Note: This dish is a simple celebration of spring. If ramps are not available, substitute parsley for the ramp leaves and fresh garlic in the sauté. If ramp butter is not available, substitute 1/4 cup of chopped chives, 1 crushed garlic clove and 3 tablespoons unsalted butter. Toss in blanched asparagus or snap peas right before serving. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 3 ramp bulbs or 1 garlic clove, finely minced

• 1/4 c. chopped scallions, white part only

• 2 to 3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• 2 tsp. grated lemon zest

• 1/4 c. chopped parsley

• 1 c. blanched asparagus, cut into 1-in. pieces (see below)

• 1/4 c. freshly grated aged cheese, such as Parmesan or Gruyère

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• Pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the pasta and cook according to the package directions. Remove a 1/4 cup of the pasta water before draining the pasta.

In a large skillet, melt the butter and sauté the ramps or garlic and scallions until wilted, about 1 minute. Stir in the lemon juice, lemon zest and the reserved pasta water. Add the pasta to the skillet along with the ramp butter and parsley, then the asparagus and cheese. Season with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes to taste.

To blanch asparagus: Drop the asparagus into a pot of boiling water and cook until just bright green, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold water.