Pop the cork!

Celebrate the season with a sip of sparkling wine.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
December 22, 2010 at 10:01PM
Hand-blown flutes feature random bubbles in the base that play up the carbon dioxide in champagne.
Hand-blown flutes feature random bubbles in the base that play up the carbon dioxide in champagne. (MCT/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

While visiting the Champagne region of France recently, I grew accustomed to the sound of corks popping. It didn't matter if it was lunchtime at a local bistro where the meal consisted of a rustic and simple plateful of greens and a slice of ham loaf, or dinnertime in a Michelin-starred restaurant such as Les Crayères in Reims. There, even the dessert -- a fig tart served with viennetta et tuiles de pain de-epices (ice cream and a gingerbread-type cookie) -- was paired with a glass of Champagne.

As a result, I quickly learned two critical things about French bubbles:

1) You don't need to reserve Champagne for weddings, New Year's Eve and/or birthdays that end in a zero.

2) Champagne really does pair well with almost any food, any time.

Of course, I also learned that tasting Champagne is fun -- and tends to turn any gathering into a party. Oh, wait. I already knew that.

Mireille Guiliano, the former president and CEO of Veuve Clicquot and author of the bestselling "French Women Don't Get Fat" book, has advocated such Champagne sentiments for years -- often noting Champagne is magic in a bottle, and that no occasion is too small to serve it at. In fact, one of her favorite food pairings is pizza. The fat and oil work well with the acidity of the sparkles, she writes. Likewise, smoked salmon with a glass of Champagne is a classic.

In her recent "French Women Don't Get Fat Cookbook," she devotes an entire chapter to Champagne, offering types and styles, how to open a bottle (or two) and what to serve with it. In addition to seafood, she thinks bread, especially brioche, gougères or puff pastry, is a "marriage made in Heaven." On the flip side, she writes that most cheeses overpower the elegant flavor of Champagne -- except for the less pungent types such as fresh goat cheese on little toasts (tartines) or simple slivers of good Parmesan.

Because there are varying degrees of sweetness (see sidebar) as well as different styles of Champagne, it can be daunting to know which one to serve.

Most Champagne produced is the golden variety -- made from the three Champagne grapes. But two other types are the blanc de blancs and the rosé. Blanc de blancs is made entirely from chardonnay grapes while rosé is a blend involving an extra step in its making -- adding to its price but also contributing to a richer and fuller taste. A rosé Champagne happens to be Guiliano's favorite food wine.

After my own tour to the region and tasting numerous styles, I tend to agree. One of my favorite tastings was a rosé at the charming and family-owned Champagne G. Tribaut (www.champagne.g.tribaut.com) in the village of Hautvillers -- the picturesque village where Dom Perignon is buried. I had to pay my respects, after all.

Donna Tabbert Long is a Minneapolis writer.

Champagne country sighting in France.
Champagne country sighting in France. (Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
A champagne tasting in Reims, France.
A champagne tasting in Reims, France. (Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
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DONNA TABBERT LONG

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