A pineapple margarita for good luck? Yes, please

In looking for symbols of luck to usher in the new year, I came across the pineapple, long associated with friendliness, warmth and good fortune.

The flavor of this luxuriant, rich fruit is nicely balanced by a cutting acidity. In cocktails, it blends harmoniously with a range of spirits, though usually with rum (think piña colada). It also works nicely with the smoky notes of mezcal and tequila. Both spirits are made from agave. Mezcal can be produced from up to 40 different species of the agave plant. Tequila, a type of mezcal, is made from just one — the agave tequilana, or Blue Weber agave. Mezcal has a stronger taste and a higher alcohol concentration than tequila.

Pineapple cocktails are especially festive, thanks to an enzyme called bromelain that breaks down protein and reacts with air to make bubbles when the juice is shaken. There's no need to fuss with the fresh fruit; in this case, canned or bottled juice is just as good. Look for varieties without added sugar and that are sold in smaller quantities, if possible, as the juice can spoil quickly once opened.

The splendor of this New Year's cocktail is not diminished when it's made as a boisson or sobrio — zero-proof. The variation calls for additional fresh lime juice and little sparkling water. Both are elegantly crowned with coarse salt and a slice of grilled pineapple.

To complement such sunny sips, think about serving dishes with contrasting flavors and colors. As we transition from one year to the next, keep the choices light and easy — broiled shrimp, chips with lively fresh salsa and guacamole, and fish or chicken tacos are as simple to make as they are to serve. Be sure to add a few good-luck Mexican wedding cakes for dessert.

Makes 2 cocktails, but is easily doubled.

You can make up a big batch for a crowd and hold in the refrigerator. Not everyone loves the smoky notes in mezcal, so feel free to use tequila. Make it zero-proof by omitting the tequila and adding several extra splashes of fresh lime juice. From Beth Dooley.

• 1/4 c. fresh orange juice

• 2 tbsp. fresh lime juice

• 3/4 c. (6 oz.) pineapple juice

• Coarse salt, for garnish

• Crushed ice

• Grilled pineapple slices, for garnish (see below)

Directions

Put the mezcal or fresh lime juice, orange juice, lime juice and pineapple juice into a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously.

Pour about 1/4 inch of coarse salt into a saucer. Lightly wet the rim of the glasses with water. Holding the glass at a 45-degree angle, run the glass rim around the salt. Set the glass aside so the salt hardens. Carefully fill the glass with crushed ice. Pour the margarita into the glasses then garnish with the lime slices and grilled pineapple.

To prepare grilled pineapple: Cut fresh pineapple into 2-inch pieces. To grill it on the stovetop, using tongs, hold the pineapple piece over the flame until it begins to char, about 5 to 8 minutes. To grill in the broiler, preheat the broiler to high. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange the pineapple pieces on the parchment and run under the broiler, checking after about 3 to 5 minutes. If it's beginning to char, flip and continue grilling another 3 to 5 minutes.