Wine writers and competition judges are a veritable magnet for tough questions: What's the best bottle you ever had? How can you taste and assess 100 wines in a day? What pairs best with artichokes?
But my favorite is this: If you could drink wines from only one region, what would it be?
I used to say the Loire, because that French region has an amazing array of über-food-friendly reds, whites and sparkling wines. Then I went east to Burgundy, because the chardonnays and pinot noirs from there are generally harmony incarnate, sometimes stupendous and often mystical, raising more questions than they answer.
Well, now I have journeyed a bit farther east, just across the border to Italy's Piedmont region. It is renowned for profound reds from Barolo and Barbaresco, but the escalating quality of more affordable reds and whites has sealed the deal for me.
In fact, my transitional moment came last month via an insanely delicious bottle of Vietti Roero Arneis. Showcasing a grape that almost became extinct — rescued a half-century ago by Alfredo Currado, father of current Vietti winemaker Luca Currado — this crisp, vibrant, delectable wine provided as much bliss as any white I have tasted this year. Similar pleasure can be derived with arneis from Bruno Giacosa, Ceretto and Paitin.
Another worthy white comes from the subregion of Gavi, using the cortese grape. The best of these combine bursts of pear and citrus flavors with bracing mineral notes. I especially love Banfi's Vigne Regali Principessa and Enrico Serafino's Gavi di Gavi, and the Villa Sparina, Regali and Giordano Lombardo are worth seeking out, as well.
A couple of more obscure white Piemontese grapes are starting to hit the hinterlands, thanks to savvy and aggressive local importers: nascetta (Elvio Cogno) and favorita (Malvirà and Negro Angelo & Figli). Not only are they great additions to those seeking membership in the Century Club (for those who have tried at least 100 grape varieties), but they're just darn tasty.
Ah, I almost forgot moscato, the sweet white grape that for many of us finds its foremost expression in versions labeled moscato d'Asti. Most domestic renditions are pleasing but simple fruit cocktails. The Piemontese versions tend to be more effervescent and show more backbone and complexity. Look for Elio Perrone, Virgin and the crazy-delicious Saracco.
