Pick of the crop: Farmers markets open

Get out the shopping bags and your walking shoes. Time to head to the farmers market.

May 11, 2014 at 3:14AM
TOM WALLACE • twallace@startribune.com Assign #20009265A Slug: Hmong0917 Date: Sept 8, 2009 Hmong cooking - The cook, Mai Ly shops at the Hmong Farmers Market on University and Dale in St. Paul – The market caters to the traditional cookers. Peppers
Don’t just stick with the familiar when shopping at farmers markets, which are bound to have several varieties of your favorite produce. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

For winter-weary cooks, the reopening of the seasonal farmers markets — more than 170 in the state — is as welcome as any warm-and-sunny forecast.

For those who need a slight prompt to explore a venue of friendly vendors and fresh food, consider what three market experts advise: Susan Berkson, the voice of the Minneapolis Farmers Market (quite literally, she broadcasts weekly Fresh & Local podcasts from the market; find them at www.mplsfarmersmarket.com or on iTunes); Tricia Cornell, author of the new "Minnesota Farmers Market Cookbook" (Voyageur Press, $24.99), and Beth Dooley, author of "Minnesota's Bounty: The Farmers Market Cookbook" (University of Minnesota Press, $29.95).

• For best selection, go early. Some farmers pick produce at night. The closer you choose your food to picking time, the fresher it will be. Not so incidentally, there are fewer shoppers and easier parking at that time of the morning.

• Bring small bills. Some vendors accept credit cards; many do not.

• Don't haggle over prices. "Growers are thoughtful about how to price their food, and they're unlikely to want to reduce prices," said Berkson. At the end of that day's market, however, farmers may lower prices on what remains.

• Shop on weekdays if you don't like crowds. The Minneapolis Farmers Market on Lyndale Avenue is open seven days a week. "In the middle of the season, when the fields are overflowing, lots of growers are here, even on Thursdays when so many are on the Nicollet Mall. You can zip in and fill up the trunk," said Berkson.

• Slow down and enjoy the experience. The market is a destination as much as a grocery venue.

• Talk to people. Visit with the farmers and other vendors. Chat with other shoppers. "There are lots of conversations that might not take place at a supermarket," said Berkson.

• Expand your world. Go to a market outside your neighborhood. If you visit one of the downtown markets, you'll meet people from all over the city. "It's like a peaceable United Nations," said Berkson. "People from the suburbs, in particular, are surprised to see the world in one place."

• Explore many other markets. "I don't like to be a regular. I love to travel to different markets," said Cornell.

• Switch up what you buy. Reach for that unfamiliar pepper or herb. Or simply expand your weekly mealtime repertoire with produce you skip over at the supermarket. "It's a great place to discover new foods," said Dooley.

• Tell growers what you'd like to see (and buy). "Our growers talk to consumers to see what they would like," said Berkson.

• Find out about your food — where it's grown, when it's picked, how it's grown. Ask questions. "When there's not a crowd, farmers love to talk about what they do," said Cornell.

• Find heirloom varieties of produce. "Many are available only at the market because they're grown in limited quantity and/or because they're very perishable and couldn't withstand the shipping and storage," said Dooley.

• Plan your menu based on the market. "This time of year, you have to go and be ready to be inspired by what's there," said Cornell.

• Don't overbuy, tempting as it is. "I shop the market with a list just like at a grocery store, so I don't get more than I can use," said Cornell.

• First-timer at the market? For the full experience, wait a few weeks until there's more selection, suggests Cornell, who notes that it's still worth exploring in the early part of the season, with its young greens and root vegetables that have been wintered in the ground (parsnips, sunchokes), since it's still the right time, weatherwise, for roasting root vegetables.

I'm hungry already.

Follow Lee Svitak Dean on Twitter: @StribTaste

What surprises await at the market (not all at the same time, however)?

Duck and quail eggs. Fiddlehead ferns. Exotic mushrooms. Farmstead cheeses. Minnesota peanuts. Bitter melon. Mizuna (a green). Edamame. Sweet potato leaves. Pea vines and other vines. Chicken feet. Lard. Eggplant in more varieties than seems possible. Same for potatoes, peppers and herbs. Gooseberries. Minnesota plums and grapes. Dark purple raspberries and wild strawberries. Amaranth. Apple and pear varieties not found elsewhere.

How do you prepare fare from the market?

"When buying food that's so fresh, the less you do to it the better. Obviously, roasting vegetables this time of year is good. But a lot of things that we eat cooked can also be eaten raw. Grate turnips or slice them thin; same with beets. Brussels sprouts are good raw when young," said Tricia Cornell, author of the new "Minnesota Farmers Market Cookbook. "Or if you're used to eating lettuce fresh, try it in lettuce soup, a fresh springy dish."


Bar Five Meats & Poultry sales table with eggs sold by Dawn Schwirtz, Roger Schwatz
Bar Five Meats & Poultry sales table with eggs sold by Dawn Schwirtz, Roger Schwatz (Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
Rick Nelson • startribune.com Market0722 - Carrots from Cornecopia Farm at the U of M farmers market
Some surprises you might encounter at the market:  New varieties of old favorites such as carrots, and fiddlehead ferns. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)
White Water State Park,MN;5/1/03:A couple of fiddle head ferns bask in the spring warmth before they will soon unfurl at Whitewater State Park.
GENERAL INFORMATION: Spring photos. CAPTION FOR VARIETY, PRINT EDITION: Fiddlehead ferns, Whitewater State Park, Elba, Minn. CAPTION FOR VARIETY, ONLINE EDITION: The tight green spine of the fiddlehead fern will unfurl as the season advances in Whitewater State Park near Elba, Minn.
White Water State Park,MN;5/1/03:A couple of fiddle head ferns bask in the spring warmth before they will soon unfurl at Whitewater State Park. GENERAL INFORMATION: Spring photos. CAPTION FOR VARIETY, PRINT EDITION: Fiddlehead ferns, Whitewater State Park, Elba, Minn. CAPTION FOR VARIETY, ONLINE EDITION: The tight green spine of the fiddlehead fern will unfurl as the season advances in Whitewater State Park near Elba, Minn. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)
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