Oven-roasted delicata squash bakes up big fall flavors

Of all the beautiful winter squashes, delicata is the easiest to love.

Though I'm fond of creamy butternut and brilliant red Kuri, it's delicata I choose for a quick dinner on a busy night. It's the perfect size for one or two people, about a pound each. Its pretty green, striated skin is edible, so there's no need to peel. It's easy to cut through, seed and then slice, dice or stuff before roasting to turn it sweetly earthy and tender.

Delicata is one of the first squashes to appear in markets and will be available through late fall. Look for firm delicata squash with no soft spots or bruises. There's no need to refrigerat; just store winter squash in a cool dark place in a basket that allows the air to circulate. Use delicata relatively quickly; these don't keep as long as their harder-skinned cousins.

To prep this squash, lop off the top and bottom ends, stand it up straight, and slice down the center lengthwise into even halves; scoop out the seeds and fibers, then cut into half-moons or chunks. Toss the pieces in melted butter instead of oil for a nutty, rich flavor, then arrange on a baking sheet so they don't touch while they roast (too close and they steam). A hot oven does the trick.

These roasty-toasty-sweet slices make a terrific appetizer paired with a vivid red pepper dip, or tossed with greens for a brilliant salad, or tangled with pasta and Parmesan cheese. No matter how you slice and dice it, roasted delicata is a delicious fall dish.

Serves 4 to 6.

Quick and easy, this simple technique roasts delicata squash to toasty caramelized perfection. Paired with a vibrant red pepper dipping sauce, it's a terrific appetizer, or toss the slices into a salad with a tart vinaigrette. Tangled in pasta with Parmesan cheese, it's a simple dinner. You may end up with extra sauce, so store it in a covered container in the refrigerator to swirl into rice, drizzle over roast chicken, or slather on flatbread. Store it in a covered container for up to a week or freeze. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 jalapeño chile

• 2 red bell peppers

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1/3 c. rice wine vinegar

• Pinch salt

For the squash:

• 2 delicata squash, washed

• 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

• Sprinkle of coarse salt

• Sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper

To prepare the dipping sauce: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil for easy cleanup. Cut the jalapeño and bell peppers in half, remove and discard the seeds, and place peppers cut side down on the baking sheet.

Roast until the skins are blackened, about 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and allow to cool. Rub the blackened skins from the pepper.

Chop the peppers and put them into a medium pot along with the garlic and rice wine vinegar. Set over low heat and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers and garlic are very tender, about 5 to 8 minutes. If the sauce seems too thin, remove the lid and continue simmering until it is reduced. Transfer into a blender and purée. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

To prepare the squash: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Trim both ends of each squash. Stand one squash up on a cut end and slice it lengthwise down the center. Repeat with the second squash. Scrape out and discard the seeds and stringy flesh.

Place the squash cut side down on a cutting board and slice into 1-inch-thick half-moons. Transfer to a large bowl, toss with the melted butter and then arrange the squash on a baking sheet, spreading them out so they don't touch. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Roast the squash until lightly browned and tender, about 15 minutes, flip the slices over and continue roasting until golden brown, another 10 to 12 minutes.