Chatter threads through the quiet concentration at Milan Village Arts School in western Minnesota. A dozen adult students eagerly gather around a giant work table inside this converted century-old country schoolhouse. It reflects the area's deep Nordic roots with a rich red exterior, blue and green trim, and a roof influenced by Vikings. We gaze out big windows that frame the snow-covered landscape of this tiny prairie town (pop. 350) as we paint leaves, acorns and curly twigs, using a paste infused with pure silver particles.
Instructor Kim Bakken-Parr talks us through using this fairly new medium of precious metal clay, and offers a table of books and finished pieces to inspire us.
Display cases show what drew me to the school: heirloom arts such as Norwegian chip carving, spoon carving, silversmithing, and the intricate scrolls and curves of acanthus carving that draw students from across the nation to learn from masters.
My weakness — as the granddaughter of a woman who made krumkake for Christmas, said "Uff da!" with regularity and wore a "Proud to Be Norwegian" cap — has always been rosemaling. The floral-influenced decorative painting varies depending on its region of Norway — Rogalund, Telemark and Gudbrandsdal. Karen Jenson, whose rosemaling has been featured in New York City and Oslo folk-art museums, painted Milan's downtown murals, lives in a museum-worthy Nordic home near the school, and teaches a few times a year.
Gene Tokkeim guides classes in Norwegian knife making and uses Scandinavian influences in his stoneware pottery studio in nearby Dawson, Minn. He's one of many teachers spread throughout the Minnesota River Valley, where artists have found affordable living and often nurtured a heritage that may span generations and oceans.
"It's kind of important for a school like this to exist," says Ron Porep, who coordinates the weekend classes. "Otherwise, these skills don't get passed on."
One class can spark a thirst for more. Mary Anderson of Bellingham, Minn., proudly wears intricate silver jewelry made in previous classes and a braided Sami bracelet made from reindeer leather and an antler button.
"I try to expand my horizons," she says. "This is my getaway."