Minnesota-grown cherry tomatoes are at their perky best

As much as I love a big sun-split Jersey Girl tomato, sliced thick for a drippy BLT, it's the cherry tomatoes I crave each year.

Popping with sweet-tart intensity, they pack all that sunny tomato flavor into one plucky bite. Cherry tomatoes contain less water, so their flavors are concentrated and they simply have way more taste. They also come into the market a little ahead of the bigger varieties.

We've had a slow start to the season, so everything is late. We're finally catching up, and you'll find a range of cherry tomatoes with names like Midnight Snack, Sunsweet and Tiny Tim, in all their glorious colors — bright red, fiery orange, brilliant yellow. Tomatoes of any kind hate the cold; it dampens their taste and speeds their demise. Best to keep them on the counter at room temperature in a dark corner, but be sure to enjoy them before too long.

Cherry tomatoes hold their shape when cut, unlike their bigger, juicy siblings, and they make the perfect match to griddled halloumi. This cheese, which originated on the island of Cyprus, is made from goat, sheep, and often cow's milk, and is brined, giving it saltiness and a greater depth of flavor than mozzarella. It has a dry, springy texture that's often described as "squeaky," and a high melting point.

When sautéed or roasted, halloumi develops a crisp browned crust and softer interior. Tossed hot from a skillet into the tomatoes, it warms them just enough to release their sweet-tart juices that makes a light dressing when drizzled with a good olive oil, salt and pepper. Add in several handfuls of basil and cilantro, along with a few shakes of pepper and Za'atar (if you happen to have some on hand), for a summer salad that just doesn't get any simpler or more delicious.

Serves 4 to 6.

Searing cubes of halloumi in a hot skillet turns them soft and melty on the inside and crisp-brown on the surface. Be warned — you'll want to eat them right out of the skillet. Toss them into a bowl of sliced cherry tomatoes, drizzle with olive oil and a dash of red wine vinegar with handfuls of herbs and you have a meatless meal or hearty side to grilled chicken or lamb. From Beth Dooley.

• 14 oz. halloumi cheese, cut into 1-in. cubes, patted dry

• 4 c. cherry tomatoes, cut in half

• 1 to 2 tbsp. red wine vinegar, to taste

• 1/2 c. diced red onion

• 1/2 c. chopped basil, plus more for garnish

• Coarse salt, to taste

• Coarsely ground black pepper, to taste

• Several pinches za'atar, optional

Directions

Film a large skillet with about 2 tablespoons of the oil and set over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the cheese in one layer and cook until golden on one side, about 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the cheese and cook without moving until golden on the other side, about another minute. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with the remaining cheese.