Black coffee. Preferably an espresso, cut with hot water. Perfection. I am not the audience for the crop of mocha lattes, candy cane cappuccinos and salted caramel dirty chais.

However, offer me a pumpkin spice latte, and the gig is up. I’m such a sucker for anything pumpkin that I happily forgo my black coffee mantra for this seasonal treat.

I like this musky-smelling, subtle-tasting, orange winter squash whether it’s boiled, baked or simmered into savory soups, chili or stews. I especially like it cooked into a thick, rusty-orange purée. Homemade or canned, it’s perfect for mixing with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice and cloves for spooning into a flaky pie shell. Make no mistake: This is the combination that screams pumpkin goodness.

It turns out the secret to “pumpkin” lies more in the pumpkin seasoning than the actual vegetable. Good news, really — because the seasoning can be incorporated into all manner of dishes — especially my fall baking.

I blend my own pumpkin pie spice using proportions from Betty Crocker, and I take the time to grind my own allspice, nutmeg and cloves for freshness. I also like to vary the cinnamon. Check out the variety of cinnamons at such spice specialists as the Spice House (thespicehouse.com), which also sells a delicious pumpkin pie spice it blends itself. Trader Joe’s blend is good, too.

Armed with a jar of pumpkin pie spice, I sprinkle it into everything from my home-brewed coffee and black tea to my evening bowl of frozen vanilla yogurt. Mostly, I use the seasoning with cooked pumpkin — its rightful pairing — in cakes, pies, ice cream and puddings.

Inspired by a store-bought bag of pumpkin-spiced granola, I added the pumpkin spice seasoning to my standard streusel topping destined for simple one-pan cakes. The resulting cinnamon pecan streusel is so good that I find myself dolloping it over French toast and spreading it on a toasted cinnamon raisin bagel with a schmear of cream cheese.

Streusel completed, I added pumpkin purée (canned, unsweetened) to the cake batter for a fall dessert that is simply delicious and within reach of most cooks’ abilities. The only caveat is to remember to measure your cake pan to prevent problems in the oven. For this recipe, you’ll need to use a pan that is 9 inches across the top and 1 ½ inches deep.

The cake keeps well for a couple of days if covered tightly. If desired, you can gild the cake with an espresso-flavored glaze. I like to serve it with a scoop of soft ice cream or a cup of pumpkin-spiced coffee.

Since pumpkin and breakfast seem to be a lasting romance, I added some canned pumpkin and the spice mixture to my favorite waffle recipe — one that is tangy from buttermilk and lightened with beaten egg whites. Tiny dried currants add sweetness and texture; omit them if you like.

One note: Canned pumpkin has been in short supply recently. You can make both of these recipes with cooked mashed fresh sweet potatoes or canned sweet potatoes (drain off the syrup first).

Homemade Pumpkin Pie Spice

Makes about 1/2 cup.

Note: Adapted from Betty Crocker.

• 3 tbsp. ground cinnamon

• 2 tbsp. ground ginger

• 2 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg

• 1 1/2 tsp. ground allspice

• 1 1/2 tsp. ground cloves

Directions

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Mix well. Spoon into small jars and store in a dark place for a month or so.

Pumpkin Spice and Currant Waffles

Serves 3 to 4.

Note: This recipe doubles nicely. If necessary, you can substitute cooked mashed fresh sweet potatoes or canned sweet potatoes (drain off the syrup first). Reheat any leftover waffles in the toaster or toaster oven to re-crisp them before serving. From JeanMarie Brownson.

• 1 c. flour

• 1 1/2 tsp. pumpkin pie spice

• 1 tsp. baking soda

• 1/4 tsp. salt

• 1 c. solid-pack canned pumpkin

• 1/4 c. dried currants or chopped raisins

• 1 c. low fat buttermilk

• 1/3 c. safflower oil or high-heat expeller-pressed canola oil

• 1/2 tsp. vanilla

• 2 eggs, separated

• 1/4 c. granulated sugar

For serving:

• Softened butter, chopped pecans, pumpkin pie spice

• Maple syrup or agave syrup, warmed

Directions

Heat oven to 200 degrees. Heat waffle iron according to manufacturer’s directions. When iron is heated, spray the iron with nonstick cooking spray for high heat. (Spray waffle iron as needed between waffles.)

Whisk together flour, pumpkin pie spice, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Stir in pumpkin and dried fruit; mix well. Mix buttermilk, oil, vanilla and egg yolks in small bowl. Stir wet mixture into the flour mixture just until mixed.

Beat egg whites in a small bowl on high speed until foamy. Gradually beat in sugar until soft peaks form. Gently fold whites into the batter just until mixed.

For each waffle, spoon a generous cup of the batter into the heated waffle iron, close the iron and bake until waffle is crisped and perfectly golden. Remove the baked waffle; put into the oven directly on the oven rack for 5 to 10 minutes while you bake the remaining waffles.

To serve, pile a couple of hot waffle squares on a heated serving plate. Top with a pat of butter. Sprinkle plate with pecans and pie spice. Serve with warmed syrup.

Nutrition information per each of 4 servings:

Calories 411 Fat 22 g Sodium 760 mg

Carbohydrates 47 g Saturated fat 3 g Total sugars 18 g

Protein 9 g Cholesterol 95 mg Dietary fiber 3 g

Pumpkin Pecan Streusel Coffee Cake

Serves 8 to 10.

Note: Use a pan that is 9 inches across the top and 1 1/2 inches deep. Canned pumpkin has been in short supply recently. If necessary, you can substitute cooked mashed fresh sweet potatoes or canned sweet potatoes (drain off the syrup first). Serve the cake with a scoop of vanilla or pumpkin ice cream. From JeanMarie Brownson.

Cinnamon pecan streusel:

• 1/2 c. flour

• 1/4 c. packed dark brown sugar

• 1/2 to 1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice

• Pinch salt

• 1/4 c. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

• 3/4 c. chopped pecans

Cake:

• 1 1/2 c. flour

• 2 tsp. pumpkin pie spice

• 3/4 tsp. baking soda

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

• 3/4 c. packed dark brown sugar

• 1 egg

• 1 c. solid-pack canned pumpkin (see Note)

• 1 tsp. vanilla

Glaze:

• 1/3 c. powdered sugar

• 1/2 tsp. instant espresso granules, optional

• About 1 tbsp. milk or half-and-half

Directions

For the streusel: Mix 1/2 cup flour, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1/2 to 1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice and pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Use clean hands and your fingertips to blend 1/2 stick butter into the flour mixture until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the pecans. Use your hands to squeeze and gently clump the streusel into small, shaggy clumps. (Mixture can be made a day in advance; leave covered at room temperature.)

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease or spray a deep, straight-sided 9-inch round (at least 1 1/2 inches deep) or square cake pan with cooking spray.

For the cake: Mix 1 1/2 cups flour, 2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice, baking soda and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Put the 1 stick butter into a large bowl and beat with a hand mixer (or wooden spoon) until light and creamy in texture, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the 3/4 cup brown sugar until incorporated; add the egg and beat it smooth. Add the pumpkin and vanilla; mix well. Dump in the flour mixture; use gentle strokes with a rubber spatula just to incorporate the flour into the batter. (Be careful not to overmix or the cake texture will be tough.)

Scrape the batter into the greased pan; smooth the top. Evenly crumble all of the streusel mixture over the top of the cake. Bake in the center of the oven until a wooden pick inserted in the center is withdrawn clean, about 35 minutes. Cool on wire rack until warm.

Meanwhile, for the glaze, mix the powdered sugar and coffee granules in a small bowl. Dribble in the milk until the mixture forms a smooth, thick, drizzle-able glaze. Use the tines of a fork to swirl the glaze over the cake. Let cool until glaze is set. Use a serrated knife to cut wedges of the cake to serve.

Nutrition information per each of 10 servings:

Calories 388 Fat 21 g Sodium 301 mg

Carbohydrates 49 g Saturated fat 9 g Total sugars 27 g

Protein 4 g Cholesterol 55 mg Dietary fiber 2 g