A surge of high-profile openings made the year's final few weeks an exciting and delicious time to be a Twin Cities diner.
Tullibee, the Nordic beauty in the Hewing Hotel, is the province of chef Grae Nonas, an Austin, Texas, transplant. Spouses Ann Kim and Conrad Leifur of Pizzeria Lola launched their Young Joni, and crowds instantly made a beeline to northeast Minneapolis. The Walker Art Center's Esker Grove debuted, under the tutelage of Piccolo chef Doug Flicker. McKinney Roe, Erik the Red and Oui Bar + Ktchn injected a much-needed pulse into Minneapolis' emerging East Town neighborhood. Red Rabbit — the Italian cousin to the Red Cow mini-chain and the work of chef Todd Macdonald — opened in the North Loop on Dec. 20. Pajarito, where chefs Stephan Hesse and Tyge Nelson are focusing on "refined Mexican cuisine" in the former Glockenspiel space, served its first dinner on Dec. 21.
Trend of the Year: Big names go casual
For some of the most influential players on the Twin Cities dining scene, the key word of 2016 was "approachable." The Bachelor Farmer took the lead by creating an ideal daytime cafe, then Restaurant Alma followed with its breakfast-through-dinner Cafe Alma. Restaurateur Ryan Burnet (Bar La Grassa, Burch Steak and Pizza Bar, Eastside) also saw the rich possibilities in the fast-casual world, launching salad-centric Crisp & Green, a total chain-in-the-making. Ditto Parasole Restaurant Holdings (Manny's Steakhouse, Chino Latino, Salut Bar Americain), which smartly encapsulates the fresh-and-healthy mantra of its Good Earth concept into Field Day by Good Earth. More where this came from, please.
Top winners
The Star Tribune's 2016 Restaurant of the Year? It's Upton 43, chef Erick Harcey's indelibly personal and idiosyncratic reflection of his beloved Swedish heritage. Harcey (familiar to diners through his Victory 44) has translated the countless meals celebrated at his grandparents' table into a must-visit Linden Hills hot spot, where smoking, charring, fermenting, pickling and other time-honored Nordic cooking techniques seamlessly merge with the latest advances in molecular gastronomy.
The year's other major huzzahs belong to St. Genevieve. The work of Steven Brown (the Star Tribune's 2016 Chef of the Year, and the mastermind behind Tilia), it's the approachable French restaurant that we never knew we were missing. It's one of those rare restaurants that seemingly have it all: a menu of meticulously prepared modern French classics, a pearl of a setting and a service staff that comes off as casual but approaches its work with a military-like precision. That sound you hear? It's the pop of a champagne cork, a reflection of the bar's obsession with bubbles.
So many openings