You know it's fall when the pears are perfect — subtly sweet and so ripe that when you take a bite, sticky juice flows down your arm. Local pears with names such as Luscious and Moon Glow are easy to love.
When choosing pears, look for unblemished pears with stems still attached and a light perfume aroma. Unlike apples, pears ripen beautifully off the tree. They're nice even if still a bit crisp. When cooking pears, you can get away with some that aren't at peak.
Pears ripen from the inside out; set them on the counter in a basket to allow for air flow. They're ready when they're slightly soft at the blossom end and lightly wrinkled at the stem. That's when to refrigerate the pears in a plastic bag for up to three days. Before serving, bring them back to room temperature to enjoy their full flavor.
The pears at our farmers markets are irresistible right now, so load up. Don't be put off by the rusty or mottled-looking skins or smaller size of our local pears compared with those shipped in from far away. Those local flavors are concentrated, bright and intense.
Some cooks prefer to peel their pears first, but I find this step unnecessary, especially when I cook them, because the peel seems to melt away.
Pears are even more versatile than apples in the kitchen. But like apples, they tend to brown quickly once sliced. If you are preparing them in advance, hold the slices in acidified water (1 teaspoon of lemon juice to 3 cups of water) until ready to use.
Too many pears in your kitchen present delicious possibilities:
• Serve sliced or roasted pears with sharp cheese and cured meat. Layer them into sandwiches of ham or turkey; toss them onto flatbread with rosemary.
