Smoke isn't a flavor that most people associate with beer. But there was a time when wood-fired malting kilns lent many beers some smoky essence. Technological advances mostly tamed the dusky tang, but smoked beer didn't die altogether. In parts of Germany the crafting of Rauchbier, as it is called there, is a tradition that thrives today. This tradition has been picked up and expanded upon by U.S. craft brewers.
The geographic heart of smoked beer is Bamberg, Germany. Of the many rauchbier brewers in Bamberg, the best known in this country is Heller-Trum, makers of the Aecht Schlenkerla brand. The brewery uses beechwood-smoked barley that gives its beer the savory bouquet of smoked meat.
There are several varieties of Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier, all of them smoked versions of standard German lager styles. The classic smoked Märzen is brewed in a style akin to the familiar Oktoberfest beer. Schlenkerla Märzen is a soothing symphony of smoke and sweet, with background notes of raisin and spice. A dry finish keeps it light.
Schlenkerla Urbock is a fuller-bodied cousin to the Märzen with deeper dark-fruit flavors, hints of chocolate and rich, oily smokiness. Schlenkerla Weizen pairs hammy smoke with the banana and clove flavors of a German wheat beer. They complement each other perfectly, much as a traditional weizen complements a flavorful smoked ham.
My favorite is Schlenkerla Helles. While no smoked malt is used to make this malty golden lager, residual smoke from the brewery imparts a subtle, gauzy essence that beautifully blends with the beer's bready sweetness. This is a brilliant beer.
While the Bamberg brewers stick to traditional lagers, U.S. brewers have gravitated toward smoked porters and stouts, using bitter roastiness rather than sweet malt to balance the smoke.
Three Feet Deep is a delicious smoked stout from Wisconsin's Furthermore Beer. It uses peat-smoked malt, the same malt used to make scotch whiskey, for an earthier smoke character. This light-bodied beer is great for cozying up by the fire.
For a local take on smoked porter, try Surly's Smoke. Released every November, Smoke is a silky-smooth, barrel-aged Baltic porter. It is a masterful blend of chocolate, dark fruits and licorice, with puffs of smoke that waft in and out. It's a luxuriant beer for sipping slowly through an evening. Some searching in stores might still turn up a bottle or two of this year's release.
