For several years the mantra in craft beer has been "more, more, more," as in more hops, more alcohol, bigger, brasher, smack-you-in-the-face flavors that shout "Pay attention to me!"
But there is a growing cadre of beer makers and drinkers saying that enough is enough. They crave something subtler -- beers that won't wreck their palates or leave them wobbling after just a couple of pints, but with enough flavor to make them want a third.
Enter "session" beers, so-called because they satisfy through a session at the pub without the slurred words and embarrassing antics at the end. They are beers built for socializing, content to be a peripheral player rather than the star.
Some proponents insist that session beers must be less than 4 percent alcohol. That can be hard to find in this country of big beers, but not impossible. Cain's Dark Mild clocks in at a mere 3.2 percent. But don't confuse it with the 3.2 beer you buy at the grocery store. This Liverpudlian mild ale is packed with flavor. A light touch of roasted malt brings chocolate notes that complement the toffee and toast center. Mild bitterness and moderate carbonation keep it smooth. It's one of my new favorites.
For a local take on the English mild, head to Great Waters brewpub in St. Paul for a pint of New Centurian. Nutty and chocolaty malt is balanced by just a touch of bitterness and earthy flavor from English hops. Traditional hand-pulled, cask service and the use of oats and wheat give this light-bodied beer a rich, creamy mouthfeel.
Anchor Small Beer gives you a session brew with a bigger hop bite. At just over 3 percent alcohol it's a lightweight. There's a wee bit of caramel malt, but hops steal the show. Bitterness is relatively high for such a little beer, and the grassy, citrus flavors of English East Kent Golding hops sit firmly on top.
A beverage for relaxing
Although I don't recommend drinking around lawn mowers, certain session beers are often called "lawn mower" beers, meaning they are perfect for knocking back a couple of cold ones on a hot summer day. Samurai from Great Divide Brewing Co. is just such a beer. Like a more interesting version of the standard American lager, this rice ale delivers citrus and apple notes on a base of sweet pilsner malt. It's dry and crisp, but a bit stronger at 5 percent alcohol.
