Travel the world and in every country that makes a yeast-raised bread you will find some variation of the breakfast dish in which slices of bread are soaked in a mixture of egg and milk, then fried.
In France they call it "pain perdu" -- lost bread, a reminder that it's a good way to use stale, leftover bread. Here we call it French toast, although at least one food expert says the name is much more contemporary than the ancient dish.
Called German toast in the United States before World War I, the name change came at a time of anti-German sentiment, writes Jacques Rolland in "The Cook's Essential Kitchen Dictionary" (Rose, $14.95). Unlike liberty cabbage, an alternative name for sauerkraut during the same time, the name change stuck and it has been French toast ever since.
Today's French toast is a breakfast or brunch dish that enjoys many gourmet variations. Simple to make and easy to vary according to tastes, it can be crunchy and light or thick with custard -- as rich or as homespun as you choose.
Toast tips
Some tips from pastry chef Rory Philipson, who owns the Blue Bottle Cafe in New Jersey:
• If you like crunchy French toast, slice the bread the night before and leave it out to dry.
• Use butter, not spray and not oil. The milk solids promote browning, and add a delicious flavor.
