SAN JUAN —
My pregnant wife and I stood in line for two hours outside our neighborhood grocery store over the weekend. Once inside, we found that most essential products were scarce, and we were limited in the number we could buy of each item.
But we're in Puerto Rico's capital city, and we're middle class, and that makes us pretty lucky. Millions of poor Puerto Ricans are worse off since Hurricane Maria hit, and if the government and aid organizations can't figure out the best way to deploy lifesaving supplies to the rest of the island, it will only get bleaker.
In San Juan, folks have to choose between different lines: at the supermarket for food, at the gas station for a fill-up or at the bank to access cash — the only form of payment accepted at most stores, since ongoing telecommunications outages make it difficult to accept credit cards or other electronic payment methods. Even the commonwealth's Nutritional Assistance Program, which feeds 1.3 million people out of Puerto Rico's population of nearly 3.4 million, operates mostly electronically, which means it's also not accepted at many retail outlets, so poorer residents can't buy food without cash.
Thankfully, many low-lying areas in San Juan do have potable water service. El Nuevo Día, the island's largest and most influential newspaper, reported on Friday that about 50 percent of the Aqueduct and Sewer Authority's customers now have service. But that number has barely budged since the first wave of repairs began days after the disaster.
Still, outside the San Juan metro area, reports paint starker choices. In many rural towns there are no lines; stores haven't been able to open, tanker trucks can't reach distant gas stations to resupply and many bank branches are still closed. Water service has not been re-established in many areas, and people I've spoken with tell me of hourlong slogs just to get drinking water for their families. Rural residents have no basic goods to buy, and no way to buy them even if supplies arrived. They need help immediately.
This past weekend, I spoke to an aid worker for an international NGO and a high-ranking official in the federal disaster response bureaucracy in Puerto Rico. To my surprise, they both agreed that the island's current predicament is one of the worst, if not the worst, natural and human catastrophes they'd worked on. Both also agreed on the logistical issues raised by the scope of the disaster and the difficulty in coordinating efforts without adequate communications.
There's no neighboring state in which to set up a staging area for support. The capital is the best we've got at this point and, although communication within the metro area itself is possible, reaching folks on the ground anywhere else is nearly impossible. According to the Telecommunications Regulatory Board, only 38.5 percent of cell towers are currently in operation, mostly those that are being powered by generators.