If you go

Where to eat

Pishat: Shaded and appealing Pristina bistro serving traditional Albanian cuisine, including meatballs, stuffed peppers and homemade bread. Main courses $5-$15 (facebook.com/pishat.restaurant).

Soma Book Station:

Cozy cafe in Pristina with an extensive English-language library, serving organic teas and noted for its macchiatos and cocktails. Small food platters available from $2-$8. Closed Sundays (somabookstation.com).

What to do

Sinan Pasha Mosque: Mosque is welcoming, but guests must be appropriately dressed, including a head scarf for women. Interior is recently painted, with the crown particularly impressive (no entry fee; Mimar Sinani, Prizren).

Kalaja Fortress: Situated above Prizren's main plaza. The road leading to it is paved only part of the way and turns steep near the top. In warm weather, climb to the Kalaja Fortress for a panoramic city view or just stroll the cobblestone streets of the old town (no entry fee).

Gracanica Monastery: Located on main road into Gracanica, about three miles southeast of Pristina and enclosed in a tall wooden fence. The monastery's architecture is considered one of the best examples in Kosovo of Serbian influence during the Byzantine era. Open 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. No photos allowed (free entry; kosovo.net/egracanica.html).

Ethnographic Museum: This museum in Pristina has preserved an impressive collection in light of the recent war, including handicrafts, traditional clothing and tapestries. English-speaking guides (free entry, recommended donation; facebook.com/Muzeuetnologjik).


Balkan Insight: balkaninsight.com.

U.N. Mission in Kosovo: www.unmikonline.org.