If at first you don't succeed, fry again

Q Before we learned anything about cooking, we bought a deep fryer. The kitchen-shop woman said that no matter what recipes say, you can fry at about 350 degrees as long as you don't crowd the pot. The fryer she sold us won't go above 355. Was she doing a sell job?

A Take the fryer back. Let's assume the saleswoman was misinformed and not doing a "sell job." Three-hundred fifty degrees is the low end of the deep-frying range, which goes as high as 400. Most deep frying is done between 365 and 375 degrees.

A deep-frying primer The right temperature: The thicker and/or denser the food that is being fried, usually the lower the temperature of the oil so heat can penetrate and set off the chemical reactions that cook the food, and accomplish all this before the food's surface burns. That said, oil temperatures rarely go below 350. So bone-in chicken quarters, thick fritters and whole fish might be fried between 350 and 365, while shrimp, thin fillets, tempura and thinly cut, batter-dipped vegetables and fruits are usually cooked at 375. Of course, follow the recipe if you are working with one.

The right oil: Use the right oil and don't reuse it. The "right" oil is one with a high smoke point. The smoke point is the temperature at which the oil breaks down. You can tell the breakdown has begun because the oil smokes. Once oil smokes, it is ruined; don't use it.

Among oils with high smoke points are refined canola oil, grape-seed oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, avocado oil and peanut oil. Refining takes out impurities, which raises an oil's smoke point, but avoid hydrogenated oils, which bring on the much reviled trans fats.

Start with fresh oil each time you deep-fry, as used oil loses its high smoke point and its health benefits.

The right foods: Nearly anything that can be cooked quickly can be deep-fried -- tender meats, nearly all fish, vegetables, fruits, croquettes, fritters, breads, pastry doughs, batter-dipped foods, etc. When frying dense vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, turnips, etc., make sure they are thinly sliced. Always begin with foods that are dry and at room temperature.

More dos and don'ts: Never put food into the oil until the oil has reached the proper temperature. Do not let salt get into the oil, as it will break it down more quickly. Scoop out any food particles that could burn and avoid getting water in the oil (these both also break down oils).

A deep-frying thermometer is essential to make sure you keep the oil consistently at the required temperature.

Don't crowd the pan.

When is it done: Fried food is done when its surface is a rich golden brown and the food is cooked through. If in doubt, pull out a piece, cool for a few moments and cut into it.

Always lift fried things out of the oil with a slotted spoon or sieve, letting oil drain back into the pan. Immediately turn it out onto a cooking sheet covered with paper towels to absorb any other fat. This is when you salt. Serve fried food immediately.