We had come to China almost accidentally. Retiring after 40 years of teaching, my wife, Char, received an e-mail asking if she was interested in teaching in China. Ten months later, we packed our daily life into suitcases and moved it 7,000 miles to Hangzhou
Everything was new and strange. Lying in a cold bed in a cold apartment that first night — far from everyone and everything and all of the acquired comfort we knew — we wondered about the wisdom of our decision.
We spent three months pointing and using hand gestures, wishing we could interact with the Chinese in more substantive ways. Finally, Char passed word among the Chinese English teachers that we wanted a translator.
So on a bright Saturday morning in April, we find ourselves walking along WenEr Road in Hangzhou looking for a girl with a backpack. Pedestrians and bicycles and the ubiquitous, silent electric motorbikes fill the sidewalks and bike lanes. Cars rush along the four-lane, one-way street while city buses transport riders in the opposite direction.
Why an 18-year-old high-school senior has agreed to accompany an American couple in their sixties around Hangzhou we cannot imagine, but when we wave to Eryi (pronounced "are-ee") on this sunny morning, she waves back enthusiastically. We are easy to identify, the only westerners on the street.
Awkward hello moments quickly evaporate. We head off to a get-acquainted lunch. Within minutes of being seated, Eryi helps us put at ease a newly hired, nervous server who was waiting on westerners for the first time. And as we speak with the server through Eryi, our conversation blossoms into an interview with the restaurant manager, surely a lost opportunity if Eryi weren't present.
Our conversation blossoms. In fact, our entire afternoon begins budding into a flowering relationship. Char and Eryi chat like lost friends reunited as we walk to a store, where Eryi helps us exchange some light bulbs.
Later, Eryi helps us speak with a street food vendor. Char passes the vendor each morning on the way to school, and each Wednesday night we stop there to get our dinner. At last, we meet. Eryi explains who we are. We ask questions. I make a video of the man creating one of his tasty pies.