Most Americans have been introduced to miso, the traditional Japanese fermented soybean paste, in the form of the ubiquitous soup, served as the first course in most Japanese restaurants.
In the United States, miso soup usually involves little more than soft tofu, seaweed and a scattering of scallions, but the flavor is savory and complex enough to compel the diner to slurp down every drop.
It’s that savoriness, combined with a touch of sweetness, that makes miso paste such an essential ingredient in Japanese cooking. Over the years, though, it’s found its way into many American kitchens. And given the versatility of miso paste, it’s no wonder why.
You can find one or two varieties of miso paste in most grocery stores, often in the produce section. Typically, you’ll have a choice between white and red.
Red miso, also known as akamiso, is aged a year or more, which is when it develops its reddish-brown hue. In order to repel the growth of bad microorganisms during the long fermentation process, red miso is made with a higher proportion of salt — and hence tastes saltier — than most other varieties.
White miso is also known as shiro miso, which in Japanese translates to “soup miso.” It’s fermented for a much shorter period, sometimes as little as a week, and is milder, sweeter and less salty than red miso.
The uses for miso paste are limitless. In this week’s recipe, Sheet Pan Honey-Miso-Glazed Halibut and Asparagus, I’ve mixed it with honey, ginger, garlic and soy sauce and used this heady mixture to marinate halibut fillets before roasting them in a hot oven with asparagus. It’s an easy but impressive meal that’s perfect for a busy weeknight or when you need a sophisticated but stress-free weekend meal.
Once you buy a tub of miso and use it on the halibut, you’ll have plenty left to experiment with in your everyday cooking. Mix it with butter for a spoon-licking good compound butter to melt on steaming ears of corn or grilled fish or chicken. Combine it with mayonnaise for a mind-bending spread for your favorite sandwich. It’s good spooned into a soup, instead of another pinch of salt, in the seasoning process. You can even add it to caramel sauce for a satisfying salty counterpart to all that sweetness.