Home cook: Grilled artichokes decidedly different from steamed

August 6, 2008 at 7:36PM

I've begun to see a trend on the restaurant menus. Artichokes are no longer just served warm, steamed or chilled with a simple vinaigrette. You can find many versions of grilled (or even fancier: "fire-roasted") artichokes with spicy basting sauces and creative sauces that complement the smoky artichoke flavor.

Some of the artichokes I have tasted at certain restaurants have not been cooked beforehand, so unfortunately the final result is very al dente, a texture not optimal for the vegetable. This recipe calls for cooking the artichokes first and finishing them off on the grill, so that the texture is just right.

America's entire commercial artichoke crop is grown on about 9,000 acres concentrated in only five California counties -- a meager harvest compared with Italy's 150,000 acres of artichokes. In recent years, even fewer American farmers have been growing artichokes because the demand has declined. Sadly, some artichoke enthusiasts think the decline is linked to Italian families not passing on their culinary traditions and instead opting for quicker cooking solutions. But Californians love artichokes, consuming nearly 40 percent of the domestic crop.

Make sure to select globe artichokes that have tight, compact heads and tiny thorns. Don't worry if they are a little brown, which sometimes comes from a light frost before harvesting.

Grilled artichokes, with their smoky-sweet flavor, taste decidedly different from steamed artichokes. I love to serve these at a casual dinner along with small bowls on the table for guests to discard the remaining leaves. If you prefer a lighter sauce, try a sprightly, light vinaigrette or make the aioli with low-fat mayonnaise. I also like to combine fresh tomato salsa with sour cream and lime juice for a Mexican-style sauce.

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DIANE ROSSEN WORTHINGTON, Tribune Media Services

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