The sky was the color of fresh dirt as we finally cruised into Amarillo, Texas, in a duct-taped Toyota Corolla. It was dusk on a Friday night, and we had nowhere to stay. I couldn't drive another mile, and my sister Jenny, still in high school, didn't yet have her license. We hoped the car would survive Route 66 after getting broadsided in a Minneapolis snowstorm just the week before. Scars from a frozen snowbank still rippled the passenger side.
Jenny and I were in this northern tip of Texas because I'd held the vague yet resolute idea of driving to California along this legendary roadway after graduating college. And so, a few years ago we hit the open road.
What we discovered along the way — beyond exploring diverse pockets of the country up close — is that as much as you might carefully plan your itinerary, the actual theme of a road trip emerges only once you're on it. There is the journey where you unexpectedly fell in love or broke up, or discovered that tucked into the lush autumnal beauty of Hwy. 7 in Vermont were enough dairies for a trunk full of cheeses. The drive to the New Jersey shore that suddenly became an homage to Bruce Springsteen — blasting "Born to Run" while cruising past chrome-and-neon diners on the way to the Asbury Park boardwalk. For Jenny and me, our theme — "California or Bust" — was both metaphorical and literal: We had to get to California before the car fell apart.
The banged-up Corolla was holding up better than I was by the time we hit Amarillo, but I was alert enough to read the signs. Two seconds in, you know you're in a cowboy town. We pulled into the parking lot of a Western-themed motel with a vintage neon sign that had long ago lost its luster — a perfect Coen brothers film set.
Jenny turned to me and said, with the particular authority that only a 17-year-old girl can possess, "It looks a little creepy."
Next.
We smelled hair spray and leather, and sensed testosterone, as we walked into the lobby of a hotel down the road. Top 40 dance music blared from the ballroom, and girls in frothy formal dresses gossiped on leather couches. We marveled at the boys' outfits: cowboy boots and 10-gallon hats. Prom night in Amarillo brings out the bling, Texas-style.
The almost-new teal Corolla had been stunningly perfect in the way that only your first car is stunningly perfect. I'd saved up for it by working the graveyard shift at my dorm, knowing it would carry me west.