Yes, yes, I know: It's a matter of taste, especially if "taste" is something you like your food to have. There are deep cultural roots for lutefisk. When I grew up, the church out in the country had lutefisk dinners, complete with spicy foods such as radishes — the Devil's Berries! — to add some flavor. If you're going full Norsky-Svensky Juleboard, you have to have it.
I think many of us defend lutefisk's existence because it's our grub. We don't have many signature ethnic dishes. Why lutefisk is the defining food, while delicious, perfect, exquisite lefse isn't — well, that's bad marketing. Then again, the other day our church had a lutefisk dinner, which produced one of the most Minnesotan things I've seen lately: police in yellow vests directing traffic because there were so many people coming for lutefisk. Streets backed up for blocks.
Why? Because it's so dang good? Because it's a tradition? No. I'm pretty sure they locked the doors, and rolled out buffet tables loaded with tacos, curry, spaghetti, and all the things people like to eat.
We wouldn't be sad if no one ate lutefisk anymore.
But possibly — just possibly — we'd be disappointed if the rest of the world thought we didn't.
james.lileks@startribune.com • 612-673-7858 • Twitter: @Lileks • facebook.com/james.lileks