Q: Anything new out there?
A: Always. Sweet Chow (115 N. 1st St., Mpls., 612-767-4605, chowtakeaway.com) just opened in — where else? — Minneapolis' restaurant-packed North Loop neighborhood. First-time restaurateurs Julie Hartley, Greg Cummins and Ami Francis — along with chef John Krattenmaker, a name and a face familiar to fans of Fika and Cafe Alma — are channeling their love of travel into this Asian counter-service spot.
"We don't like saying 'quick- service,' " said Hartley with a laugh. "We like 'casual.' "
The team went through three locations before they landed the ground floor of an 1884 brick beauty (most recently home to Hennepin Steam Room and, before that, the Tangiers). Minneapolis architectural firm ESG has made the most of the brick-and-beam interior, scattering nearly 80 seats at counters (one fronts the open kitchen, others are at the big sidewalk windows), communal tables and a long bar.
Krattenmaker's menu zeros in on flavors and traditions that the group encountered on their journeys through Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and South Korea.
"None of us are Asian," said Hartley. "But we've all spent a lot of time there, and love it."
Most items are priced in the midteens and are designed for speed and portability. Dishes include a double-fried Korean-style chicken sandwich, a bánh mì-inspired sandwich using a cauliflower purée instead of pork, a shrimp-green papaya salad, a baguette stuffed with crisped-up pork belly and chicken liver pâté, vermicelli noodles and duck confit in a poultry bone broth and a jasmine rice bowl with smoked brisket, pickles and a soft-cooked egg.
All 10 wine options are sold by the glass ($9), carafe ($23) and bottle ($36), supplemented by a half-dozen locally brewed beers and a full bar.