For those who drive the 55408 portion of Hennepin Avenue with any frequency, doesn't it seem as if Roat Osha popped up almost overnight?

One minute it's a former fast-food eyesore, the next it's an attention-getting glass-and-stone box. "And look," said my friend, with more than a little glee in his voice. "There's even a parking lot." I know. That almost never happens in Uptown.

The good vibes continue inside, with several spacious and airy dining areas clustered around a pleasant, drop-by-anytime bar. The large menu includes a number of rice and noodle options, along with a half-dozen you-pick-the-protein (chicken, scallops, beef) curries, several meal-in-a-bowl soups and many starters that fall under the requisite Thai standards category. Most entree prices hover in the mid-teens, and most starters and salads are $10 or less. The restaurant's Sanook Bar shakes up tropical-themed cocktails and stocks recognizable, reasonably priced wines.

Thai restaurants are the new Starbucks; they're sprouting up everywhere. Roat Osha is the work of Steve and Somsap Hein, the couple (she does the cooking) who also operate Tum Rup Thai (1221 W. Lake St., Minneapolis, tumrupthai.com), the fun-loving Thai hotspot about seven blocks to the southeast. Despite the increasing competition, it's not hard to imagine that Roat Osha will stand out. Not just outside, but inside as well.

RICK NELSON