Go Dutch (baby) for brunch

When it comes to pancakes, I usually go Dutch.

A Dutch baby — also known as a German pancake or oven-baked pancake — is the preferred pancake of weekend mornings in my house, and I'm convinced it should be in everyone's home.

For the uninitiated, a Dutch baby is a large baked pancake akin to a popover. Its shape varies slightly each time. Mine often looks like a swollen, edible sombrero, with a golden dome in the middle and a puffed-up matching rim, until it deflates. The way the golden brown pancake balloons to twice the height of the pan it's baked in before collapsing in on itself is hypnotizing. And then you get to dress it up with toppings.

But I'm not in this for the drama alone. The batter is easy to make, and the recipe is a breeze to memorize. The golden brown edges are crisp, and the folds within the pancake contain a custardy yellow center.

As spectacular as Dutch baby pancakes are, I don't see them on a lot of restaurant menus, so the magic is a little easier to capture at home.

The best thing about a Dutch baby is its endlessly adaptable nature. It provides a solid base for savory and sweet additions.

My favorite variation is the Everything Bagel Dutch Baby, my version of a savory Dutch baby pancake.

Serves 2.

Note: The rules of this pancake are simple: Move quickly and use room-temperature ingredients and a hot pan. From Ileana Morales Valentine.

• 3 eggs, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. milk or half-and-half, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. all-purpose flour

• 4 tbsp. butter, divided, at room temperature

Directions

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Place a large ovenproof skillet in the center rack of oven.

Mix eggs, milk, flour, salt and 2 tablespoons melted butter in a large bowl, and combine until batter is mostly smooth. Let the mixture rest while oven comes to temperature.

Use oven mitts to carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Place 2 tablespoons butter in the hot skillet, using a wooden spoon to quickly swirl it around. It will melt quickly and start to brown and become fragrant. Immediately add batter and return skillet to the oven. Bake until puffed up and golden brown at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with desired toppings and serve immediately. The pancake will begin to deflate as soon as it's out of the oven.

Calories460Fat32 gSodium770 mg

Carbohydrates28 gSaturated fat17 gTotal sugars4 g

Protein15 gCholesterol340 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 starch, 1 carb, 2 medium-fat protein, 4 fat.

Serves 2.

For the Everything Bagel spice blend:

• 2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds

• 2 tsp. poppy seeds

• 2 tsp. dried garlic flakes (see Note)

• 2 tsp. dried onion flakes (see Note)

For the herb-yogurt sauce:

• 1 c. plain regular yogurt (not Greek; it'll be too thick)

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh herbs, such as dill and parsley

• Pinch of salt

For the pancake:

• 1/2 c. milk or half-and-half, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. all-purpose flour

• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

• 4 tbsp. butter, divided, at room temperature

For topping:

• ¼ red onion, thinly sliced

• 1 tbsp. capers

• Fresh dill, torn into small sprigs

Directions

To make the spice blend: Combine sesame seeds, poppy seeds, garlic, onion and salt in a jar or small bowl and mix to combine.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Place a large ovenproof skillet in the center rack of oven.

Mix eggs, milk, flour, salt and 2 tablespoons melted butter in a large bowl, and combine until batter is mostly smooth. Let the mixture rest while oven comes to temperature.

Use oven mitts to carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Place 2 tablespoons butter in the hot skillet, using a wooden spoon to quickly swirl it around. It will melt quickly and start to brown and become fragrant. Immediately add batter and return skillet to the oven. Bake until puffed up and golden brown at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes.

Garnish with smoked salmon, sliced onion, capers and herb-yogurt sauce. Season generously with spice blend and small sprigs of fresh dill and serve immediately. The pancake will begin to deflate as soon as it's out of the oven.

Nutrition information per serving:

Carbohydrates36 gSaturated fat19 gTotal sugars9 g

Protein30 gCholesterol360 mgDietary fiber2 g

Exchanges per serving: ½ milk, 2 starch, 3 medium-fat protein, 4 fat.

Serves 1.

Note: From Ileana Morales Valentine.

• 1/4 c. milk, at room temperature

• 1/4 c. all-purpose flour

• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt

• 2 tbsp. butter, divided

Directions

Mix eggs, milk, flour, salt and 1 tablespoon melted butter in a large bowl to combine until batter is mostly smooth. Let rest while oven comes to temperature.

Use oven mitts to carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Place 1 tablespoon butter in hot skillet, using a wooden spoon to quickly swirl it around. It will melt quickly and start to brown and become fragrant. Immediately add batter and return skillet to the oven. Bake until puffed up and golden brown at edges, about 10 minutes. Garnish with desired toppings and serve immediately. The pancake will begin to deflate as soon as it's out of the oven.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories420Fat29 gSodium740 mg

Carbohydrates27 gSaturated fat17 gTotal sugars4 g

Exchanges per serving: 2 starch, 1 medium-fat protein, 4½ fat.