Two years of meticulous effort will be put to the test soon as the U.S. culinary team goes spatula-to- spatula with the rest of the world in the Bocuse d'Or, the international cooking contest for chefs, named after legendary French culinarian Paul Bocuse.
Head coach of the U.S. team is none other than our own Gavin Kaysen, chef/owner of Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis, who competed in 2007.
Although the U.S. team has never topped sixth place in competitions that date back to 1987, Kaysen hopes this will be the year for Team USA as 24 international chefs face off in a raucous culinary arena.
In a few days, he leaves for Lyon for last-minute prep for the Jan. 27 competition, after which he will load all the team's restaurant equipment into a 20- by 20-foot storage unit that stays in France until the next contest, two years from now. "I have more equipment in that storage unit than I have in my own restaurant," he said.
Q: How many are on the team?
A: The team consists of one chef and one commis [an assistant chef]. The commis has to be under the age of 22 by the time we actually go to the competition. The chef is Philip Tessier, executive sous chef at the French Laundry. He has worked for Thomas Keller for about 11 years. We pulled him out of working day-to-day last December [in 2013]. We have been training him since then. Next door to the French Laundry is a home that originally was Thomas' father's home. We now affectionately call it the Bocuse House; it's an R&D test kitchen now. Philip also went to Lyon with us the last cycle as well and got to see the competition and be part of the competition as well and observe — which is really helpful.
Q: How do you train for something like this?
A: We basically help focus the team on the flavor they are going after at the competition, so we do various tastings throughout the year. They give us guidelines. We know we have to create a meat platter and a fish plate. We know that the platter has to have three garnishes — and by garnish, we're not talking about shaved celery or celery leaves, it's super thought out. But until about six months before the competition, we don't know what the ingredients are going to be. Once we find out — it's guinea hen for this competition — then we begin to practice and focus all of our energy on that guinea hen. About a month ago we found out what the fish will be — a brown trout — so then we turn all our focus on that. The difference between the two presentations is that the fish will be on a plate. We have to focus a lot of our energy on how we are going to make this a plated dish. They want this to be a very three-star Michelin dish. It will be kind of like one beautiful bite, so all the components need to be there. Once we start to narrow down on those things, then that's when we start to focus on the timing. How are we in terms of timing? You only have five hours and 35 minutes.