Sometimes exceptional travel experiences demand a repeat.
After visiting the Lake Geneva area of Switzerland a few years ago, my husband, Tony, and I resolved to return to this beautiful country. This time, we opted to visit the Canton of Bern, famous for its jaw-dropping Alpine scenery and the cosmopolitan and historical city of Basel on the shores of the river Rhine.
From the Zurich Airport, which has its own railroad terminal, we were on our way in no time after landing. With our Swiss Rail Travel Passes in hand (sure, you could rent a car, but why would you want to?), we settled into our comfortable seats and watched the glorious Swiss scenery roll by. The travel pass gives the bearer unlimited first-class train access in addition to several other benefits and discounts. Most important, it eliminates the stress of navigating through unfamiliar road systems by rental car.
Just getting to our first destination, the enchanting town of Murren — which happens to be built on an Alpine outcropping at 5,500 feet — was a travel adventure in its own right.
It began when we arrived at the Lauterbrunnen train station and gazed at the majestic mountain peaks surrounding us. It's no wonder this spectacular valley has the reputation of being one of the world's most Instagram-worthy places. A short bus ride brought us to the cable car, the only way to reach our mountain retreat, since Murren is closed to vehicular traffic. Despite my appreciable jet lag, I delighted in the beauty of the pristine Alpine scenery — peppered with grazing cows, rustic farmhouses and mountain waterfalls — as these pastoral scenes rolled by me some 2,000 feet below.
The cable car came to a halt, and the Hotel Alpenruh, our mountain retreat for the next three days, was just steps away. Our rustic room was pleasant and comfortable, but nothing prepared us for the view that met us when we pulled open the drapes and stepped out on the terrace. It was one of the most spectacular vistas we've ever enjoyed from a hotel room.
There's something to be said about a room with a view, especially one this splendid. As we relaxed on our terrace, we followed the graceful path of paragliders as they sailed over the town's mountains and rooftops, which they do from morning till night. The Lauterbrunnen valley, for obvious reasons, is one of the world's most popular paragliding regions.
For the next three days, that view seduced us with its sheer magnificence. We woke up at dawn to catch the sun rising up over the Alpine peaks, bathing them in a golden morning light. At sunset, we marveled at the deepening pinkish glow that the setting sun cast on the mountains, while we enjoyed delicious local wine and cheese on our balcony.