In an ideal world, we would all have a standing weekly reservation for the newish Sunday brunch at Burch Steak. Chef/co-owner Isaac Becker and chef Daniel del Prado have crafted a menu packed with nearly two dozen skillfully rendered a.m./p.m. classics, with prices hovering in the midteens.
Pancakes couldn’t be better, walking that tightrope between airy and substantial. The decadent shrimp roll ($14) is a must, as is the spectacular shrimp-crab étouffée ($16), with its delicate rice and hearty Cajun bite.
Steak and eggs? You’ve come to the right place, of course. The bacon-egg-harissa sandwich, a holdover from Becker’s 112 Eatery, is a classic for a reason, although it’s upstaged by the toast slathered with spicy, spreadable pork sausage.
Pastry chef Shawn McKenzie fully understands that no brunch is complete without an array of superior baked goods.
Her croissants are marvels of buttery technical prowess, and she has a sure-handed way with biscuits, turning out golden, oh-so-tender beauties that beg to be slathered with butter and fruity preserves (or used as a foundation for a killer fried chicken sandwich). Along with coffee cakes, McKenzie makes a bagel for the ages, dense and chewy, the browned tops studded with seeds; Del Prado and Becker serve them with cream cheese, silky cured salmon and juicy tomatoes. Perfect.
Service remains the same four-star experience that it is at dinner. The bar aims to please. And long banks of east-facing windows make this nighttime venue an utterly captivating daytime space.
Burch Steak: 1933 Colfax Av. S., Mpls., 612-843-1515, burchrestaurant.com. Open for brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. Reservations accepted.
Meanwhile, brunch kicked off last weekend at nearby Bradstreet Neighborhood Craftshouse. Chef Blake Meier’s appealing menu includes 10 larger plates ($8 to $14), headlined by an ultra-crispy, ultra-juicy slab of fried chicken laid out on a tender buckwheat-green onion waffle, and a North African-spiced hash of succulent lamb belly, fall vegetables and a runny poached egg.
Sides ($2 to $7) include addictive maple-glazed bacon, crispy hash browns dusted with lively shichimi togarashi powder and dreamy biscuits made flaky through the miracle of duck fat.
There are four kids’ menu options ($4 to $6), and the bar gets into the act with a bloody mary flight ($18) and bottomless mimosas ($14). The soothing arts and crafts-inspired setting is an ideal nurse-your-hangover environment.
Bradstreet Neighborhood Craftshouse: 1930 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-871-1200, bradstreet craftshouse.com. Open for brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Reservations accepted.