Food + drink: Six surprising things about the Crooked Pint

August 17, 2012 at 7:45PM
Hookers & Blow played opening night at the Crooked Pint Ale House
Hookers & Blow played opening night at the Crooked Pint Ale House (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

I didn't think I was going to like the Crooked Pint Ale House. No bar has been able to make this Washington Avenue address work in downtown Minneapolis -- not the 501 Club and definitely not Matty B's. (Remember that place? Me neither.)

To my surprise, there's very little not to like about this craft-beer focused bar, an offshoot of the Green Mill company. A lot of people seem to agree. Here are six things that surprised me about the Crooked Pint.

1. The new look.

I liked the 501 Club, but its concrete floors and minimalist decor gave it a cold air. The Crooked Pint is the complete opposite. Reclaimed oak floors and a dropped tin ceiling have warmed up the place. A new central bar gives drinkers something to crowd around, and the leather chairs and brass fixtures create a throwback vibe.

2. They got the 40-plus crowd to dance.

Hookers & Blow brought its high-energy soul revue to the new stage last Saturday, compelling a crowd of 40- and 50-somethings to take over the dance floor. There are ambitious plans to bring in touring acts, but in the meantime the booker has filled the calendar with old standby cover bands such as Mick Sterling and Boogie Wonderland.

3. The bar food comes with a twist.

Chef Keven Kvalsten is in charge at the Green Mill's other spinoff, the well-reviewed Twisted Fork Grille in St. Paul. He designed Crooked's menu, too, outfitting it with typical comfort-food options, plus some fun stuff. I dug the chorizo corn dogs and tempura mushrooms. The burgers include a Californian topped with arugula and avocado. A barbecue burger is covered with pulled pork and coleslaw.

4. They are serious about film.

The bar's signage on Washington Avenue looks like a movie theater marquee for a reason. Inside, the many flat-screen TVs come in handy on game days. But the bar claims the dining room's 15-foot-wide screen is the biggest downtown. So they're playing classic films on Sunday nights ("The Omen" this week). And they hope to use the high-end system to debut first-run, locally made movies.

5. The beer selection needs more oomph.

Don't get me wrong, the draft list is good, just not extraordinary. And if you call your place the Crooked Pint Ale House, it should feature some extremely fine ales. They're off to a good start, though, with Surly, Deschutes, Odell and other craft brews on the 20 taps.

6. You too can open a Crooked Pint for a cool half million.

If business is good here, Green Mill is ready to franchise more pubs. You'll need $45,000 for the one-time franchise fee, and expect to give up 4 percent of monthly sales for royalties. CEO Paul Dzubnar said franchisees will need to invest between $500,000 and $1 million on the build-out. I like the place, but I'm going to stick with paying the happy-hour beer prices and call it a day.

about the writer

about the writer

Tom Horgen

Assistant Managing Editor/Audience

Tom Horgen is the Assistant Managing Editor/Audience, leading the newsroom to build new, exciting ways to reach readers across all digital platforms.

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