Fall into soup season with this hearty bean soup

Let's get this straight: You do not have to soak dry beans for soups and stews.

Dried beans are just as easy to cook as canned; they just take more time. Simply toss them into the pot with lots of vegetables and seasonings, cover with water or stock, and let them simmer away on their own while you go about your day. (This will take a couple of hours, so go for a walk or meet a friend for coffee.) Despite what older cookbooks may tell you, there's no reason to worry about adding salt or tomatoes to the pot; the beans will end up firm, yet tender and earthy, adding depth and flavor to the resulting dish.

Quality dried beans are the key to cold-weather soups and stews. You can find a wealth of locally grown dried beans at our farmers markets and, though it sounds like an oxymoron, fresh dried beans cook more quickly and have better flavors than the packaged commercial beans. This is because the longer they sit on the shelf, the drier and harder they become, taking more time to soften. (That's where soaking in advance can help.)

My favorite bean recipe at this time of year is a soupy stew that relies on a little fresh sausage to amp up the flavor. A bit of bacon or good salami would work equally well. The trick is to render the delicious drippings first to create a base for sautéing the vegetables. Once the beans and herbs are added, the whole pot simmers away, fogging windows and filling the kitchen with lovely, hunger-inducing smells.

Bean soups and stews are supremely adaptable, depending on what you have in the pantry and fridge. Adjust the amount of liquid for a lighter soup or simmer everything down into a robust stew. Either way, this ruddy potage tastes even better the next day, after the seasonings have had a little time to meld. It's simple and warming, just the dish for a frosty autumn night.

Serves 6 to 8.

You can use any sausage you like in this comforting soup-stew. All it needs is a loaf of crusty bread, a few slices of sharp aged cheese, and a crisp green salad on the side. This will taste better a day or two after it's made. Leftovers, once cooled, freeze beautifully. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 1 lb. sausage, such as sweet Italian or bratwurst, sliced 1-in. thick

• 2 tbsp. tomato paste

• 1 large sprig fresh rosemary

• 2 large sprigs fresh thyme

• 1 bay leaf

• 2 medium carrots, sliced into coins and then half-moons, about 1-in. thick

• 2 stalks celery, diced

• 2 shallots, diced

• 3 cloves garlic, smashed

• 7 to 8 c. water

• 1 lb. white beans, such as Great Northern or cannellini

• Salt to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Splash of balsamic or red wine vinegar, to taste

Directions

Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and brown until cooked through, about 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate and set aside.

Stir in the tomato paste, cooking until it begins to darken, about 1 minute. Add the rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, carrots, celery, shallots and garlic and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Stir in 7 cups of water, the beans, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and gently simmer until the beans are tender, adding more water if needed to be sure they stay submerged, about 2 hours.

When the beans are tender, add the sausage back into the pot and continue simmering for about 3 to 5 minutes, then taste and add a shot of vinegar. Adjust the seasonings before serving.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.