Experiment in the kitchen with a spring souffle

A childhood move from the big city to the country changed my perspective on many things, including the seasons. Once those changes were about hot and cold, sun and snow. Now they were about planting and harvesting, dormancy in the cold, rebirth in the spring.

For many of my neighbors, winter was when the hens stopped laying, and a sign of spring was the first clutch of warm eggs, hidden in the straw. It was a profound gesture when our closest neighbor brought us a precious bundle of her spring eggs, cradled in her arm.

Grocery store eggs would never be the same.

My mom cooked the spring eggs reverently and over-easy, so we could all admire the plump, golden yolks. As spring progressed, the first tender greens and vegetables emerged, providing perfect pairings for the eggs.

I'd like to think that these spinach soufflés are a way to connect with that memory of the first harvest of eggs, and the importance of the seasons.

If you seek out local, free-range eggs, take a moment to admire those golden yolks, and savor them. Spring is truly a rebirth, as the ground warms and life springs up all around us.

Serves 8.

• 7 tbsp. unsalted butter, divided

• 2 oz. aged Gruyère, finely shredded, divided

• 8 oz. baby spinach, washed and dried

• 2 c. milk, warmed

• 6 tbsp. flour

• 1/2 tsp. white pepper

• 1 pinch nutmeg

• 6 eggs

Directions

Put on a large pot of water to boil for the spinach. Using 1 tablespoon butter, grease 6 (1-cup) ramekins or a 6-cup soufflé dish. Use 3 tablespoons Gruyère to cover the sides of the dishes; reserve the remaining cheese. Place the ramekins or dish on a sheet pan and chill for at least 10 minutes. Drop the spinach in boiling water, stir for 1 minute to wilt, drain and wring out completely, then mince. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Bring the milk to a boil, and whisk a couple tablespoons of the hot milk into the butter and flour roux, return the pan to the heat, then whisk in the remaining milk. Cook, whisking, until smooth and bubbling. Whisk in the remaining Gruyère cheese and stir until smooth. Let cool, season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, white pepper and nutmeg.

Separate the eggs. With a wooden spoon, beat each yolk into the cooled béchamel. Stir in spinach. Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff, using an electric mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

Fold a dollop of whites into the béchamel mixture, then fold in the rest of the whites thoroughly.

Fill each ramekin, or the large soufflé dish, to the top. Dip your finger in water and then run your finger around the edge to make an indentation in the eggs. This will create a "cap" when baked.

Place on the dish(es) on a sheet pan and bake 15 minutes, then lower heat to 375 degrees and bake for 20 to 30 minutes. (If using the large soufflé dish, bake an additional 30 to 40 minutes.) When done, the soufflés will be puffed and deeply golden on top, and a paring knife inserted in the center will come out with no runny egg on it. Serve immediately.

Calories230Fat17 gSodium320 mg

Carbohydrates10 gSaturated fat9 gTotal sugars4 g

Protein11 gCholesterol180 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, ½ carb, 1 medium-fat protein, 2½ fat.