He wore faded bib overalls, stood at least 6 feet 5 inches and had an upper lip with an impressive handlebar mustache that quite obviously had been tended with care.
Before he said a word or ushered us onto his drift boat that rested on the moonshine-clear shores of the Missouri River near Craig, Mont., he had my good friend and me feeling intimidated with his towering presence and gruff demeanor.
"He scares the living daylights out of me," said my buddy, putting a finer point on our state of mind.
This was two decades ago, and both of us were on our first fly-fishing trip outside of Minnesota. We had saved enough money to pay for a week's lodging, travel and, best of all (or so we thought), a guide to float the Big Mo for one glorious day. I was beyond giddy, seduced by the marketing mavens who still immortalize the American West as a fly-fishing Mecca. Why, my money clip was fat enough to even pay a handsome tip (above and beyond the daily guide fee), as I had been instructed days earlier by a fly-fishing friend who had fished Big Sky Country for many years.
"My boat, my rules," said our guide, by way of introduction. "It's my way or the highway."
If his introduction wasn't prickly enough, our salty sea captain, whom we later dubbed Mr. Sunshine, seemed annoyed at our mere presence. The guide told us how we were going to fish (with large subsurface nymphs), where we were going to fish (on the river's foam line) and what we should do under all circumstances (listen to him and never deviate from his instructions, if, of course, we wanted to catch fish).
But I was less concerned about catching fish than I was on how we fished. I wanted to cast imitation "dry flies" to large, surface-feeding trout — which roamed the Missouri in spades — and not nymphs below the water's surface. After all, the thrill of watching a trout inhale a fly is the reason I started to fly-fish.
"Sir, we'd like to float until we see rising fish … and then cast to them with dry flies," I said timidly. "We're not worried about catching fish. We just want to cast dries to trout feeding on the surface. That's how we prefer to fish."