Baklava is just right this time of year, when we've eaten our fill of holiday candies and cookies but are still craving something sweet. Chock-full of nuts and laced with aromatics and honey, this iconic pastry of Greece, Turkey and the Balkans is satisfying without being cloying. It's a treat that's just as good with morning coffee as it is with a dollop of whipped cream for dessert.
I'm not much of a baker, so I'm always seeking hacks. The other day, I landed on this shortcut recipe for baklava by chef Einat Admony, featured in the 2018 cookbook "Food52 Genius Desserts: 100 Recipes That Will Change the Way You Bake." Instead of being layered in a pan, the pastry is rolled up around the nut filling, then sliced into discs like cinnamon rolls. Drizzled with orange- and cardamom-infused honey syrup, it emerges shatteringly crisp and gooey while the roasty flavor of the nuts shines through.
Though the process may seem time-consuming, it's really not fussy. I find the repetitive task of brushing the layers of phyllo with butter to be meditative and the results well worth the effort. Plus, baklava is delicious straight from the oven and will taste just fine the next day or even a couple of days after it's baked.
While any kind of nut will work — pistachios, walnuts, pecans — our locally grown hazelnuts from the American Hazelnut Co. really shine here. They're smaller than the larger filberts from Oregon or Turkey and have a deeper, more robust flavor. Because they're roasted before being packaged, there's no need to toast them to remove the bitter pith before using.
Pinwheel baklava is just as finger-licking sticky and luscious as the traditional version, plus it's easier to serve.
Baklava Pinwheels
Makes about 24 pieces.
Note: Be sure to fully thaw the phyllo in the refrigerator and to chill the syrup in advance of pouring it on top of the pastry when you pull it hot from the oven. This step allows the baklava to fully absorb all the honeyed goodness. Once the phyllo has thawed, remove any you don't need for the recipe, reroll, wrap in plastic and refreeze up to 2 months. Find local hazelnuts through the American Hazelnut Co. (americanhazelnutcompany.com), a collective of Midwest hazelnut farmers. From Beth Dooley.
For the syrup: