SACRED HEART, MINN. — More than four decades have passed since Willy Smith and I first hunted ducks in the Minnesota River bottoms not far from this west-central Minnesota town, population 510. Hereabouts, fire whistles still blow at noon, and in Sacred Heart itself, on the north side of Hwy. 212, breakfast is served all day at Kathy's Place, with a smile.
Friday evening when Willy put a match to the gas lights in the hardscrabble shack that has tended our bunch of duck hunters over many years, three of us were present: Willy, his son, Matthew, 23, and I.
The shack sits high atop a granite outcropping overlooking a small marsh flush with cattails. Inside are cots, a bunk bed, a gas stove for cooking and wood-burning stove for heat. Decorating the walls are antlers of deer hunts long past, including those of Willy's grandfather, a sportsman who traveled West each fall and sometimes returned with an elk. Copies of the New Yorker and Field and Stream are strewn about in equal numbers, helter-skelter.
We had come to hunt ducks on Saturday's first day of the season. Matthew had made the trip from South Dakota, where he is in pharmacy school, but Willy's other two sons, Harry and Parker, couldn't dodge their university obligations.
My two sons, Trevor and Cole, had grown up duck hunting here on the opener as well. But according to a text I had received from them, they were tented in a snowstorm, holed up in Montana, hunting elk.
"The mosquito problem is new,'' Willy said, swinging the shack door open while holding a plateful of grilled brats. "They're horrendous.''
Darkness by then had gathered over the shack and the tangle of cedars surrounding it, and the bratwurst, along with baked beans, were soon washed down with a finger or two of tanglefoot. To the west, a July 4th-worthy lightning show was playing out against an ominously thunderous sky, suggesting the morning hunt might be a washout.
Contrary to popular belief, ducks don't fly in the rain.
"I hope we see a few birds,'' Matthew said. "It doesn't have to be a lot. But some.''