Don't be afraid of tofu: Fresh, local tofu is a game-changer

I didn't grow up eating tofu, but Yan Small did.

A native of China, Small was raised on fresh, local tofu from the neighborhood maker, a friend of her grandmother's. When she settled in St. Paul a decade ago, she couldn't understand why most of the tofu available was made in California from soybeans grown on Minnesota farms. "It just didn't make sense," she said.

So in 2018, Small founded MinnTofu (minntofu.com), which uses soybeans grown in St. Peter, cleaned in Eden Prairie and processed in Spring Lake Park. It is indeed very fresh, with a subtle, sweet, earthy taste — and it's available in area co-ops and select grocery stores.

I favor the firm or extra-firm style of fresh tofu for roasting, searing and grilling. Some recipes call for marinating it first, but very little of that flavor seeps into the tofu. Better to slick it with oil before cooking to crisp it up, then brush with a flavorful glaze. Given its mild, neutral flavor, tofu is best seasoned with assertive sauces, dressings and vinaigrette. The first, crucial step before cooking is to drain and press the block to ensure it holds its shape. Pressing removes the moisture, improves the texture and helps it form a delicate crust. (See the recipe for directions.)

Too often tofu is considered a lackluster substitute for meat, reserved for a vegetarian dinner guest when the rest of the party is eating something else. But when fresh and local, tofu stands on its own. Pan-fried, griddled, grilled, stir-fried or whirred into a spread or dressing, tofu is a willing canvas for a range of flavors, especially sharp, tangy, salty and hot — lime, ginger, rice vinegar, mint, soy, hot pepper.

It's great served over rice, tangled with noodles or stuffed into a sandwich. Any leftovers will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for a day or two. Then, cube up the cooked tofu and drizzle with a sharp vinaigrette and you have a light, bright, summery salad of contrasting textures, colors and tastes.

Serves 4.

• 1 (14-oz.) pkg. extra firm or firm water-packed tofu, rinsed and patted dry, cut in half vertically

• 3 tbsp. toasted sesame oil, divided

• 2 tbsp. rice vinegar

• 1 tsp. honey

• 2 tsp. soy sauce

• 4 medium radishes, trimmed and diced

• 1 head Boston or leaf lettuce, for serving

• Pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

• Sunflower sprouts or pea shoots, for garnish

Directions

Slice the tofu into 3-inch pieces. Film a skillet with 1 tablespoon of the toasted sesame oil and set over medium-high heat. Sear the tofu slices until they begin to turn golden on one side, about 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and sear the other sides, about another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the slices and set on a cutting board. Cut the slices into 1-inch squares.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons of toasted sesame oil, vinegar, honey, soy sauce and ginger. Turn the cooked tofu and radishes into the bowl to coat with the vinaigrette.

Arrange the lettuce leaves on a large platter or single plates. Scatter the tofu and radishes over the lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with the red pepper flakes, to taste. Garnish with the sprouts and serve.