My dad used to call Valentine's Day "amateur night." I'm still not sure if he was referring to dewy-eyed diners at two-tops or his prowess at the stove. Either way, it provided the rare occasion for him to don an apron and for Mom to mix a cocktail or pop Champagne. To this day, the sizzle of lamb chops signals a soft, cozy winter evening dining in.
I'll admit to a few overambitious Valentine's dinner disasters and have learned that stoking romance means keeping the heat out of the kitchen. Getting things prepped early cuts out fuss and adds fun; simple is sexy. Candles are, of course, a must.
This menu stars pretty "frenched" lamb chops (stripping the fat back from the rib bone to create a "lollipop" chop). They're petite, tender and meant to be held demurely with fingers and gnawed to the bone.
See the recipe if doing it yourself, or ask your butcher to do it (though that will increase the price). They may seem extravagant (but it is Valentine's Day, after all, which calls for a bit of extra), but you just need four, weighing in at a little under a pound.
Set the palate
To start the evening, nosh on a bit of smoked salmon. Napped with horseradish cream, its pink color nicely contrasts with the pale green endive cups that it's served in. When shopping, look for the smallest chunk of smoked salmon you can find; don't use cold smoked fillets or lox, as they're too oily.
To prep the salad, make the dressing ahead and get the components ready to go so there's little to do before serving. Baby arugula's peppery nip nicely partners the tang of fresh oranges; feel free to substitute watercress or simple mixed greens at whim.
The rice, brightened with dried cranberries and a hint of cinnamon, is a good match for the spinach, wilted in nutty browned butter. Nothing here is tricky; these dishes come together in a snap. Know that their bold flavors hold nicely and that nothing need be served piping hot.
