A flurry of restaurant openings in south Minneapolis has this Mac-Groveland resident jealous. "Where is the avalanche of great new dining spots in my St. Paul neighborhood?" whined the critic, selfishly.
Then I stumbled upon Indochin. Siblings Ha and Thu Nguyen took over a Grand Avenue storefront in March, concentrating on the same fresh South Asian favorites and moderate prices that make their Que Nha (849 W. University Av., St. Paul, 651-290-8552) such a popular University-and-Victoria destination.
Much of the Nguyens' sprawling menu has the mix-and-match quality associated with Asian mom-and-pop shops, but delicious surprises await those who delve beyond the lo mein-with-pork-beef-chicken-or-shrimp basics. Of special note are the rice dishes prepared in deep clay pots -- a kind of Vietnamese paella -- the rice cooked crisp and tasty on the bottom, and covered with various, yes, pork-beef-chicken-shrimp combinations.
Crêpes are served with a wide assortment of savory fillings. Barbecued pork ribs have a saucy bite. A half-dozen takes on pho, the traditional noodle soup, aim to please. And a steamed, ginger-infused chicken, paired with rice and a clear chicken broth, is a candidate for ultimate comfort food status.
Prices seldom exceed $11, there's a modest beer and wine selection and the setting is spare, stylish and small. My personal hope is that the Nguyen sisters generate enough business to expand into the empty space next door.
RICK NELSON
Indochin, 1702 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-690-2728, open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Tuesday.
