Looking back on the past 11 months, one key word that could describe the local restaurant landscape is closings.
Bookended by the demise of Brasserie Zentral in January and last weekend's last meal at Saffron Restaurant & Lounge, a number of significant restaurants have called it quits in 2016, perhaps the biggest single-year tally of goodbyes in recent memory.
But doom and gloom has hardly been the only story. Openings continue to outpace closings. Grab a scorecard and try to keep pace with the booming number of debuts from just the past few weeks.
After what feels like forever, Pizzeria Lola owners and spouses Ann Kim and Conrad Leifer have opened their Young Joni, and diners have descended in droves.
And why not? The (excellent) pizza adheres to the same Lola formula, and the kitchen also concentrates on wood-roasted vegetables (skip the cauliflower at your peril, and don't overlook the divine purple-skinned sweet potatoes, served with flakes of dried tuna). Dessert? Order the plate of church basement-inspired bars. Prices match the neighborhood, topping out at $17.50.
The inviting, woodsy/hipster setting (it's the work of Studio Mai of Los Angeles, in close collaboration with Kim) has an engaging, North Shore-meets-Northeast vibe, and its counters, bars and community tables surely constitute the Twin Cities' greatest gathering of shared seating venues. Such an ideal way to connect with your neighbors, right?
Also different from Lola: cocktails, by former La Belle Vie-er Adam Gorski. Oh, and for anyone who has waited — and waited — for a table at Lola, here's the best news of all: Young Joni accepts reservations. Hurrah.
165 13th Av. NE., Mpls., 612-345-5719, youngjoni.com. Open 4 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday, noon to midnight Saturday, noon to 11 p.m. Sunday.