If You Go
Where to stay
Arnott's Lodge is nothing fancy. But its spare apartments, with kitchens and ample space, are a fine place to base yourself on the Hilo side of the island. Rooms with private baths start at $75. 98 (arnottslodge.com).
Volcano Rainforest Retreat is just as advertised: a sanctuary in the middle of a lush, misty forest on the edge of Volcanoes National Park. Rates from $190 (volcanoretreat.com).
Where to Eat
On Hawi's main drag, Sushi Rock offers an ahi poke roll served with wasabi-infused purple sweet potato (sushirockrestaurant.net).
If it's Wednesday or Saturday, visit the Hilo Farmers Market. Snack on exotic fruit straight off the branch (hilofarmersmarket.com).
If you're driving near Waimea, Village Burger is your stop for lunch. If beef isn't your thing, they have ahi tuna and veggie burgers (villageburgerwaimea.com).