Croissants elevate this decadent French toast bake

If you were born before 1980, you may remember the New French Café. Set in the Minneapolis' Warehouse District, its windows flooded the cozy dining room with light. One of the first bistros to serve lattes (in soup bowls), it refused to offer them in "to-go" cardboard cups.

The menu of French classics, served morning through late night, was sophisticated yet accessible, and what I remember most was the breakfast bread pudding. Lush, creamy, tender and light, it was made of croissants and came in a puddle of crème anglaise that threatened to drip off the pretty white plate. Too simple to be deemed decadent, it lifted my spirits for the rest of the day.

Though I seldom have leftover croissants, when I do, this recipe puts them to excellent use. It also works well with the odds and ends of baguette, sourdough bread and challah. My go-to for brunch and when hosting overnight guests, it can be prepped a day ahead and held in the refrigerator until ready to bake. Toss in a handful of chocolate chips and voilá, it's dessert.

This version is baked in a loaf pan and is served in slices, still warm from the oven. But it will do equally well in a baking dish. Allow the pudding to cool a little before turning it out onto a platter. You can hold it for another day and then crisp up the slices in a skillet of sizzling butter.

The pudding is terrific on its own or drizzled with maple syrup jazzed up with a pop of tangy fruit, such as spring rhubarb, berries, cherries — you get the idea. Carefree and timeless, this easy dish is tres, tres Française.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: Baked off in a loaf pan, serve this in thick slices topped with tangy, bright rhubarb sauce. Feel free to add cinnamon and nutmeg to the pudding, but a generous dash of vanilla gives it plenty of flavor and pairs nicely with the rhubarb. The dish may be prepared ahead, covered with plastic wrap and held in the refrigerator for a day. Remove the plastic, allow it to come to room temperature and bake it off before serving. If you don't have croissants on hand, you can substitute about 2 to 3 cups of torn baguette. From Beth Dooley.

• 4 to 5 croissants (about 3 to 4 oz. each), torn into large pieces (see Note)

• 3 eggs

• 1 c. half and half

• Generous pinch salt

• 1/8 c. sugar

• Rhubarb sauce (see recipe)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter a 9-inch loaf pan. Place the croissant pieces into the pan.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, half and half, salt, sugar and vanilla. Pour mixture over the croissants and tamp them down with the back of a spoon so that they are mostly covered. It's OK if some of the croissant peeks through.

Bake until the pudding is puffed, golden and set, about 35 to 45 minutes; a knife inserted into the center should come up clean. Let stand for about 15 minutes before cutting into slices. Serve topped with rhubarb sauce.

Note: The rhubarb is cooked lightly so that it retains its shape and texture. If fresh rhubarb is not yet available, use frozen and reduce the cooking time just a little. From Beth Dooley.

• 1/2 lb. rhubarb, cut into 2-in. pieces, about 1 1/2 c. (see Note)

• 1/4 c. sugar

• 1 tsp. orange zest

• 1/4 c. fresh orange juice

Put the rhubarb, sugar, orange zest and juice into a saucepan and set over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stir, reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until the rhubarb is tender, about 3 to 5 minutes.