Open and shut
After 31 years, Vescio's Cucina (4001 County Road 25, St. Louis Park) has called it quits.
The Italian restaurant's Dinkytown location, Vescio's Originalé (406 14th Av. SE., Mpls., 612-378-1747, vescios.com), remains open. And, yes, it's still serving its rib-sticking college student special: all-you-can-eat pasta (spaghetti or rigatoni) for just $7.95 at lunch and $9.95 (includes a soft drink) at dinner. A student ID is required.
Now open: Upton 43 (4312 Upton Av. S., Mpls., 612-920-3406, upton43.com), the contemporary Nordic restaurant from Erick Harcey, chef/owner of Victory 44 (2203 44th Av. N., Mpls., 612-588-2228, victory-44.com).
Harcey is translating his Swedish grandparents' home cooking through the prism of his considerable skill set. Expect modern takes on Bonnie Ramberg's beef-pork meatballs and Willard Ramberg's lutefisk, plus pickled herring, poached salmon and pressed duck.
Dinner is served daily, with one small holiday scheduling caveat: The restaurant is closed through Dec. 26 for Christmas.
Also open: Heirloom (2186 Marshall Av., St. Paul, 651-493-7267, heirloomstpaul.com), where chef/owner Wyatt Evans (formerly of W.A. Frost & Co.) is promising "contemporary farmhouse cuisine," which, on his seasonal menu, currently translates to pasta tossed with sage and acorn squash, brisket with preserved mustard greens, pork jowl with slow-roasted cabbage and a sweet potato purée, and a duck egg custard topped with cranberry preserves.
Top price is $18, a sign that Evans is sticking to the "neighborhood" side of his business plan's equation.
Dinner is served Tuesday through Sunday (the restaurant is closed Christmas Eve, Christmas and New Year's Day), and there's a $12-and-under Sunday brunch that features house-baked pastries, biscuits and gravy, scrambled eggs with ham and hash browns, smoked trout with pickled onions and soft-cooked eggs.