Counter Intelligence: On a roll with sushi

When One Two Three Sushi opens early next month on the skyway level of the IDS Crystal Court in downtown Minneapolis, it's going to stick out from its quick-service competitors by offering design-your-own sushi rolls.

For a starter price of $7.99, diners will be able to select from long lists of ingredients in five categories, including rice (white or brown), protein (crispy pork, tempura shrimp, raw albacore tuna, tofu and others), fresh vegetable and fruit fillings, six toppings (including crushed wasabi peas and salmon roe) and nine sauces (including roasted pineapple-chile and mango-habanero).

A half-dozen grab-and-go classic sushi combos will also be available, supplemented by four varieties of steamed buns (crispy pork, slow-roasted pork belly, tempura shrimp and green tea-smoked chicken) and a trio of ramen noodle bowls.

The concept is the work of Sushi Avenue, the fast-growing Eagan-based supplier to supermarkets, schools and corporate campuses.

Two years ago, owners Nay Hla and Nay Lin jumped into the restaurant business, in a major way, with Masu Sushi & Robata (330 E. Hennepin Av., Mpls., www.masusushiandrobata.com). A second Masu opened last summer at the Mall of America in Bloomington.

Shea Inc., the Minneapolis design firm responsible for Masu's distinctive look, has been tapped for Sushi One Two Three. The new venture — which is replacing the former home of the long-standing Godiva chocolate shop — is the latest upgrade in the Crystal Court's food selection. A branch of Peoples Organic opened last fall, followed by an extremely popular outlet of Yogurt Lab.

The company is planning to roll out additional outlets.

Winners from last weekend's ceremony in San Francisco, hosted by local-foods deity Alice Waters, include HealthGlen's Farm & Kitchen in Forest Lake (raspberry Chambord jam), Kickapoo Coffee in Viroqua, Wis. (single-source Ethiopian coffee), Uplands Cheese Co. in Dodgeville, Wis. (Beaufort-style Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese), Carr Valley Cheese Co. in La Valle, Wis. (Marisa, a cave-aged sheep's-milk cheese), Underground Meats in Madison, Wis. (coppa and goat salami), La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa (Borsellino salami) and Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee (Wisconsite Summer Weiss). Find details at www.goodfoodawards.org.

Cafe Maude at Loring, 1612 Harmon Place, Mpls., 612-767-9080, www.cafemaudeatloring.com Not rated.

Colossal Cafe, 2315 Como Av., St. Paul, 651-797-4027, www.colossalcafe.com ⋆⋆ 1/2

Eat Street Social, 18 W. 26th St., Mpls., 612-767-6850, www.eatstreetsocial.com Not rated.

Eli's East, 815 E. Hennepin Av., Mpls., 612-331-0031, www.elisfoodandcocktails.com Not rated.

The Kenwood, 2115 W. 21st St., Mpls., 612-377-3695, www.thekenwoodrestaurant.com ⋆⋆⋆