COEUR A LA CRÈME

Serves 6 to 8.

Note: A Valentine's Day classic, most often prepared in a heart-shaped mold, but a strainer works well, too. This recipe calls for strained yogurt, which is a bit lighter and tangier than the more conventional sour cream. Whole-milk Greek yogurt is available at major suprmarkets and co-ops, as well as Mediterranean groceries. (Fabge Total is one brand.) The texture of the finished dish should be that of a smooth, but not too dense, cheesecake. Plan in advance; this recipe must sit overnight.

• 12 oz. cream cheese

• 1 c. whole milk Greek-style (strained) plain yogurt (see Note)

• 1/2 c. powdered sugar

• Pinch of salt to taste

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1 c. seedless raspberry jam

• 1/4 c. Grand Marnier

• 1/2 c. frozen mixed berries, thawed

• 1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and halved

Directions

In a large bowl, with an electric beater, whip together the cream cheese until light and smooth. Then beat in the yogurt, powdered sugar, salt and vanilla.

Line the heart-shaped mold or a sieve with a single layer of dampened cheesecloth. Place the mold on a shallow pan to catch the drips and refrigerate, covered, overnight.

In a saucepan set over low heat, melt together the jam and Grand Marnier; then add the berries. Set aside.

To serve, pour a little of the sauce over the plate and spread it to cover. Unfold the cheesecloth, unmold the coeur onto a serving platter. Carefully peel off the cheesecloth; it will be damp and may stick, but scrape any of the cheese back into place.

Drizzle the remaining sauce over the coeur, arrange the strawberries over the top. Cut into wedges with a flat, smooth knife or spatula and serve with additional berries and sauce.

SABLE NOISETTE (HAZELNUT SHORTBREAD COOKIES)

Makes about 16 to 24 hearts.

Note: Sable is French for sand, and these tender cookies have a crumbly crunch, and a lovely aroma of butter and nuts. There's no baking powder in this dense, rich cookie. Just be sure to return the dough to the refrigerator if it becomes too sticky to handle as you're rolling out the cookies. If you're pressed for time, shape the dough into a log, refrigerate, and slice into rounds.

• 3/4 c. softened unsalted butter

• 3/4 c. ground, toasted hazelnuts

• 1/2 c. sugar

• Pinch salt

• 11/2 c. flour

• 1/2 c. milk chocolate chips

Directions

In a large bowl, cream together the butter, hazelnuts, sugar and a pinch of salt. Stir in the flour to make a stiff dough (you may need to gather and press it together with your hands).

Divide the dough in half and place each piece onto a separate sheet of wax paper large enough to wrap it, then flatten it to about 1 inch thick. Chill the sheets of dough for at least 45 minutes to an hour or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin until about 1/8 to 1/4-inch thick. Cut into heart shapes and place on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake in oven until just golden, about 6 to 8 minutes (check, they should be slightly firm, but not hard). Remove and cool on wire racks.

Meanwhile, melt the chocolate chips in a pan over very low heat, stirring often, or in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave, on high, for about 15 to 30 seconds, stirring every 10 seconds. Remove the chocolate from the heat before all of it is melted. It will continue melting if you continue to stir. Drizzle the cookies with melted milk chocolate.

GALETTE FRAMBOISE

Serves 2 to 4.

Note: This free-form tart is so easy to construct that you'll find yourself making it often. The filling here calls for mixed fresh or frozen berries, but feel free to add chopped pears and apples.

Dough

• 2 tbsp. sour cream or yogurt

• 2 to 3 tbsp. ice water

• 1/2 c. all-purpose flour

• 1 tbsp. sugar, plus a little more for sprinkling on shaped dough

• 1/4 tsp. salt

• 1/4 c. cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Filling

• 1 c. raspberries, fresh or frozen, thawed and drained

• 1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. sugar, divided

• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter

Directions

In a small bowl, stir together the sour cream or yogurt and ice water. Put the flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl and stir with a fork to mix. Cut in the butter using a pastry blender or two knives, so that the flour-butter mixture forms pieces the size of small peas.

Sprinkle the cold sour cream mixture over the dough, one tablespoon at a time, tossing with a fork to distribute it evenly until the dough is moist enough to stick together when pressed (add more ice water 1 teaspoon at a time if necessary).

Gather the curds of dough together with your hands. It should be soft and workable. Turn the dough onto a sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap, pat into a disc, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

After dough is refrigerated, combine raspberries, 1 tablespoon sugar and butter for filling.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Pat the dough on a lightly floured surface and roll to about 6 to 8 inches around and 1/8-inch thick. Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet.

Using a knife, trace out the shape of a heart. Spread the berries over the dough, leaving a 2- to 3-inch border. Gather up the scraps of dough and set aside. Fold the uncovered border of dough up over to create a border that covers the filling by about 2 or 3 inches, allowing the dough to "pleat" as you shape the heart. (Use the scraps to patch any tears.) Using a pastry brush dipped in water, brush the edge of the crust lightly and sprinkle with a little sugar (the remaining 1 teaspoon).

Bake the galette in a preheated 400-degree oven for about 25 to 30 minutes or until the pastry is golden and crisp. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack and let the galette rest on the sheet for 10 minutes. Slip a wide spatula or a small baking sheet under the galette and slide it onto the cooling rack.

Serve warm or at room temperature, cutting it with a sharp knife.

ESPRESSO CRÈME AU CHOCOLAT

Serves 2 to 4.

Note: A shortcut mousse, this elegant dessert is quick and easy to make. It's very rich and a little goes a long way. Serve it in espresso cups, tiny wine glasses, or chocolate dessert shells.

• 1/2 c. heavy cream

• 1/4 tsp. vanilla

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 4 oz. white chocolate chips (or chopped white chocolate)

• 1/4 c. very strong espresso, warm

• 1/4 c. shaved bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate

Directions

In a medium bowl, beat the cream until stiff peaks form and fold in the vanilla. In a small saucepan set over very low heat, melt the butter and white chocolate together. Just before the chocolate is totally melted, remove it from the heat and beat in the espresso with a wooden spoon until smooth. Turn it into a small bowl.

Fold the white chocolate mixture into the whipped cream, then spoon into small cups, glasses or chocolate dessert molds, layering it with the shaved bittersweet chocolate, ending with the semisweet chocolate as garnish. Set in the freezer until semi-frozen, about 25 minutes, or freeze. If frozen, allow to slightly defrost in the refrigerator before serving.