Chill out on summer soups

In winter, soup is a cook's best friend.

We find comfort even before we sit down to dinner — browning aromatics, eking flavor from a tangle of bones. Tasting, tweaking and tasting again until we arrive at a brew that warms both body and soul.

But what do we do in summer? Shun our steadfast pal? Cast aside what sustained us though dark times? Say goodbye? Adieu? Adios?

Well, yes. But emphatically, no.

Maybe we greet soup's chill summer cousins: tonics that cheer us as temperatures spike and patience in the kitchen plummets to its annual low.

Consider the study in contrasts:

Winter soups are soothing. Summer soups are surprising.

Winter soups abide storage vegetables. Summer soups summon the best and the brightest the garden has to offer.

We could line up the usual suspects — the vichyssoise of France or gazpacho of Spain — both of which are delicious. But part of the fun of summer is veering off the beaten path.

More fun comes at serving time:

Can soup find a home in a martini glass? Yes, indeed, it can. Got soup shot glasses that haven't seen the light of day since that craze died out? Time to line 'em up.

Is there a punch bowl lurking in some closet? Dust it off. Pour appetizers from a pitcher — well, sure, of course, why not?

Per yield, I've dispensed with "number of servings," and given quantity in terms of cups. As an appetizer, half a cup is ample. If it's more of a main, you'll likely want to ramp that up.

These soups like to hang out in the fridge. You can make them the night before. The viscosity (sip-able, or spoon-able?) is up to you. Less processing keeps them chunky. More renders them highly quaffable.

So, soup lovers — let's relax. Chill out. And sip on.

Jo Marshall is a Minneapolis ad writer with an appetite for food, history and culture. Reach her at hellojo@jomarshall.com.

Makes 3 1/2 cups.

For the soup:

• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-in. rounds

• 2 1/2 c. fresh carrot juice, divided

• 1 tsp. unsalted butter

• 1 tsp. honey

• 1/2 c. heavy cream

• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

For the mousse:

• 1/4 c. crème fraîche

• 1 fresh chive, finely chopped

• 1 sprig fresh chervil, leaves only, finely chopped (see Note)

• 1 sprig tarragon, leaves only, finely chopped

Directions

To prepare soup: Put carrots, 1 1/4 cups carrot juice, butter, honey and curry powder in a medium pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until liquid has evaporated and carrots are soft, about 1 hour. Add cream, increase heat to medium and simmer for 3 minutes.

Purée carrot mixture and remaining 1 1/4 cups carrot juice in a blender. (If you have an immersion blender, do it in a large mixing bowl; it's easier.) Pass through a fine meshed sieve into a bowl, if desired. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. Taste for seasoning just before serving, and adjust if you like.

Divide soup into serving vessels. (Bowl? Mug? Martini glass?) Add dollop of mousse on each serving.

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories130Fat9 gSodium80 mg

Carbohydrates12 gSaturated fat6 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein2 gCholesterol30 mgDietary fiber1 g

Makes 6 1/2 cups.

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. Inspired by the Indian relish raita, this is soup is as cool as a cucumber with a major hit of tang. If your food processor is too small for all the ingredients, use it for only the vegetables, along with lemon juice to moisten. Then transfer the puréed mixture to a bowl and whisk in yogurt and cream. From "Williams-Sonoma Soups."

• 6 unpeeled cucumbers, each about 5 in. long, ends trimmed, cut into large chunks

• 4 kosher dill pickles, cut into chunks

• 2 c. plain low-fat yogurt

• 2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill or 1 tbsp. dried

• Salt and white pepper to taste

• Fresh dill sprigs or dried dill to garnish

Directions

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories150Fat12 gSodium205 mg

Carbohydrates8 gSaturated fat8 gTotal sugars6 g

Protein4 gCholesterol45 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: ½ milk, 2½ fat.

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. Soup is a sweet surprise — taking cues from a classic gazpacho, with grapes standing in for tomatoes. From "The New Basics Cookbook," by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins.

• 1 c. green seedless grapes

• 1 ripe avocado, pitted and peeled

• 3/4 c. peeled and coarsely chopped cucumber

• 1/2 c. seeded and coarsely chopped green bell pepper

• 1/2 c. coarsely chopped green onions

• 1 1/2 c. white grape juice

• 1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lime juice

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint leaves

• Salt and white pepper to taste

Directions

Purée the grapes, avocado, cucumber, green pepper, celery and onions (in batches, if necessary) in a food processor, adding grape juice as needed to prevent clogging. Do not completely liquefy — small vegetable chunks add interest and texture.

Transfer mixture to a bowl. Stir in remaining grape juice, lime juice and chopped mint, along with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours.

Taste again at serving time, adjust seasoning as needed, and garnish with mint sprigs or lime zest.

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Carbohydrates13 gSaturated fat0 gTotal sugars10 g

Protein1 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber2 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 carb, ½ fat.

Makes about 4 cups.

Note: Slavic countries incorporate radishes into cold soups. From Epicurious.com.

• 3/4 lb. seedless cucumber (usually plastic-wrapped), peeled and chopped (2 c.)

• 2 c. well-shaken chilled buttermilk

• 1 tsp. kosher salt

• 1 tsp. seasoned rice vinegar

• 1/2 tsp. sugar

Directions

Purée all radishes, cucumber, buttermilk, salt, vinegar and sugar in a blender until very smooth. Serve immediately or store in refrigerator. Before serving, taste for seasoning and correct if needed. Garnish with radish or cucumber.

Nutrition information per ½-cup serving:

Calories35Fat1 gSodium375 mg

Carbohydrates6 gSaturated fat0 gTotal sugars4 g