In the heat of summer, I like to start dinner in the early morning when the kitchen is quiet, calm and cool — and salads are high on the list.

Now that our farmers markets are in full harvest mode, the salad options are endless with late summer tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and early fall beets, carrots and kale at their best. The key is the vinaigrette, a simple, yet careful balance of one-third acid (vinegar or citrus juices) to two parts fat (oil, butter, rendered bacon, chicken fat) and seasoning.

I can cut back on the oil by adding a spoonful of honey, maple syrup or brown sugar. A little mustard adds body and zip. Adding the dressing early to the salad allows time for the ingredients to bathe and soak up all the flavors. I'll give it a final taste to adjust things right before serving.

Yesterday's rotisserie chicken, already boldly seasoned, makes a mighty good salad. (There are times when I pick one up, just for this.) Be sure to tear the meat off the bone into thick, ragged hunks to better sop up the dressing. A slightly staling baguette, toasted to golden croutons, adds a bit of heft and crunch.

No recipe for chicken salad is carved in stone. Come fall, toss in creamy white beans, beets, chopped kale and fennel. When the season turns, try winter squash and apples, and later in the year, go with cranberries and sweet potatoes. In the hands of a good cook, no two chicken salads should be the same.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

Chicken Salad Panzanella

Serves 4.

Note: Inspired by the classic Italian panzanella, this makes great use of leftover roast, grilled or rotisserie chicken and those tomatoes and peppers that may be a bit past their prime. Here's where to use up that heel of leftover baguette. You'll end up with more vinaigrette than this recipe requires so keep it on hand in a jar in the refrigerator for the next time. From Beth Dooley.

• 1/4 c. red wine vinegar

• 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

• 2 tsp. honey

• 1/2 c. plus 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Pinch of red pepper flakes, to taste

• 1/2 baguette cut into 1-in. cubes

• 3 to 3 1/2 c. cooked chicken, shredded or torn

• 1/4 c. diced white onion

• 1 c. cherry tomatoes, cut in half

• 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/2-in. pieces

• 1/4 c. finely chopped basil

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions

To make the vinaigrette: In a small jar with a lid, add the vinegar, mustard, honey and 1/2 cup oil, and shake vigorously to combine. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes.

To make the croutons: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, toss the baguette cubes with 2 tablespoons oil, spread out on a baking sheet, and toast until crisped and golden, about 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.

To assemble the salad: Put the chicken, onion, tomatoes, bell pepper, basil and parsley into a bowl and toss with enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat. Store in the refrigerator. When ready to serve, season with salt and pepper and toss in the croutons; garnish with more parsley.