Grilling was made for these times.

Actually, it was made for all times, but particularly for those with economic struggles. Cooking with fire goes back to the days of the woolly mammoth, but during more recent millennia, the most prevalent meats for grilling were the cheaper ones -- the very kind many of us are turning to as food prices soar at a much hotter rate than our incomes.

"Barbecue was originally designed for the disenfranchised," said Steven Raichlen, author of the recently updated "The Barbecue! Bible" (now in its 10th year). "The ribs and the briskets weren't going to the masters."

True, except that these days, once-inexpensive cuts -- pork ribs, flank or skirt steak and even the once-lowly Cornish game hen (which a friend invariably calls "game-ish corn hen") -- cost several times as much as they did a decade or so ago.

But there remain plenty of ways to combine frugality, fire and flavor this summer, when vacations-at-home -- and entertaining there -- have become so prevalent. And just like in the old, cheaper days (not so long ago), the items best suited for grilling are the cheaper cuts.

Take ground beef. The extra-lean stuff is great for concocting some hockey pucks, while the fattier meat, whose grease adds sizzle and smoke to the process, produces spot-on burgers if cooked correctly (and to at least 160 degrees).

Same goes for fowl. Chicken breasts are notoriously ill-suited for grilling: Boneless ones get tough with just a few seconds too much -- or too little -- cooking, while the bone-in ones have such an odd shape that only a real pro can cook them perfectly throughout. Meanwhile, the more reasonably priced dark meat is a grillmeister's pal, not to mention a continuation of America's dubious preferences.

"The great irony is that we send most of the dark meat from our birds to Asia," said Raichlen. "I love those cuts. I'm a big believer in the fact that any meat that's next to the bone is inherently more flavorful."

The penny-wise options extend beyond meats. Vegetables -- show of hands: who out there doesn't love grilled corn? -- and fruits are gaining great favor by the fire. So are salads featuring charred greens. Grilled pizzas with fresh ingredients (although any meat toppings should be pre-cooked) and quesadillas with leftovers are "great fast food, and something people don't scoff at anymore," Raichlen noted.

But when most folks think hibachi heaven or kettle karma, there's usually protein involved. So here are some tips on burnishing your grilling skills without busting your wallet:

• Pork: Baby-back ribs have skyrocketed in price, and even country-style ribs have risen markedly. Truthfully, though, most pork cuts, even tenderloin (which is so rich that it's best in smaller servings), give decent bang for the buck. Your best bets might be ground pork (see recipe) or getting some cheaper pork chops and brining them in saltwater for 12 to 24 hours before grilling.

• Fowl: Minnesotans have been hip to turkey legs for a lot longer than most of our fellow Americans, and they remain a reliable favorite. Chicken thighs are still a relatively good buy, and whole chickens thrust onto a beer can are an increasingly popular grilled entree. For those who think it actually has flavor, ground turkey is not a bad way to go.

• Beef: Even brisket is getting expensive, but it goes a long way by feeding a crowd or providing tasty leftovers. Raichlen heartily recommends tri-tip, which you might want to call ahead for at the grocery. "It's the cut that cooks like steak and slices like brisket," he said. Another option is short ribs, which are best made with indirect grilling or in a smoker.

• Seafood: In this landlocked region of ours, nothing from the oceans is a bargain. But alternating chunks of seafood (swordfish, salmon, or even shrimp or scallops) with veggies on a skewer provides decent economic mileage. Larger pieces of that most perennially underrated of freshwater fish, catfish (which Raichlen calls "the poor man's halibut") is a dandy option with a glaze or rub on the outside.

Ay, there's the rub. These seasoning blends and marinades can enrich the cheapest of foods, while honoring our heritage.

Bill Ward • 612-673-7643