Go ahead and heap spices on cauliflower. It can take it.

Dinner is different with the arrival of autumn. Afternoon shadows lengthen, the air chills with scents of damp earth as leaves turn gold and red, and we turn away from the grill and toward the stove.

In a glorious farewell to summer, the harvest is at its peak. Stroll the farmers market aisles piled high with a collision of seasons — the brilliant tomatoes, glossy eggplant, deep green kale and early cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, beets and potatoes. Aren’t we all hungry for more substantial comforting fare — the soups, stews, curries?

Celebrate the bounty with vegetable-forward dishes. Take cauliflower: Often underappreciated, it’s extremely versatile and compliant. Blanched or steamed, cauliflower retains its mild cabbage-y, nutty flavors, ready to be boldly seasoned with hot chiles and warm Indian spices or swathed in a lush herb-scented cream.

Try roasting it on a sheet pan until deep brown with sweetly crisped edges, inviting a shower of shaved Parmesan and dash of lemon. Or combine these two techniques by pan-roasting cauliflower in butter and oil then cover and steam it until tender and creamy. Season generously for a hearty side dish, or when paired with beans and served on rice or tangled in pasta, it makes a simple, satisfying vegetarian dinner.

At the market, you’ll find white, purple, green and golden cauliflower. All are equally delicious and can be used interchangeably in any dish. Just note that the purple cauliflower, when cooked, may turn a muddy, blueish to gray; the gold and green will retain their color. The colored varieties contain a few more nutrients and antioxidants than the white, and their flavors are a bit richer, sweeter and nuttier.

Cauliflower of all colors can stand up in vibrant curries of warm cumin and zingy ginger sparked with lemon, fresh cilantro and mint. No matter how you dress cauliflower, know it can take the pan’s heat and bold flavors. Don’t hold back.

Serves 4 to 6.

Directions

Film a large sauté pan or cast-iron skillet with the oil and set over medium-high heat.

When the oil begins to ripple add the butter and melt, then add the cauliflower. Stir and cook until the cauliflower begins to color, about 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper lower the heat and add the curry, cumin, ginger, garlic and pepper. Stir well then add the beans. Cover to steam the cauliflower until tender, about 3 more minutes.

Serve with rice or pasta garnished with the olives, cilantro, mint and lemon wedges.