Carrots, in all their colors and flavor, brighten up mealtime

Carrots are marching into the market in a rainbow of colors, shapes and sizes. They can spark a stew or sauté, but now, when they're at their crisp, crunchy best, I like to showcase them on center plate. Every year our growers introduce different varieties. There's the Nantes, a deep orange and magenta; the Chantenay, short, thick and cone-shaped; the tiny finger-shaped Bambina; the pointed Horn; the white Bolero. All are sweet in their own, earthy way.

When at market, look for bright, firm carrots with frilly green tops. At home, remove those fronds, as they tend to suck the moisture from the roots and speed their decline. (You can use the carrot tops in salads, stir fries and sautés, but know that they are bitter, herbaceous and astringent and better suited to a garnish in carrot-centric dishes. They are not poisonous, but eating too many can cause gastric distress.) When stored without the greens in plastic bags in the refrigerator, carrots keep beautifully, retaining their color and flavor for at least a week. If they're organic, no need to peel them and you'll retain more taste that way.

In the vegetable world, carrots might be voted most popular. Everyone loves carrots (save for those dreary, bagged mini carrots carved from larger, less valuable California specimens). And, they can sure take the heat — roasted, braised, grilled. But now that they're at their freshest, carrot salads are best. Shredded, they're delicious tossed with your favorite coleslaw dressing for a slaw or try them marinated in a simple lemon or balsamic vinaigrette. They're great seasoned with cumin, coriander, cilantro, mint and orange.

When you're figuring the amount of carrots to buy, know that a pound of carrots will yield 4 cups of shredded roots or 6 cups of chopped carrots. A pound of chopped or shredded rainbow carrots is a beautiful thing. Chopped, they truly show off their stunning colors (note the two-toned shades in the dark rosy red and deep orange carrots). Fresh carrot salads will keep a day or two, allowing their flavors to meld together and enrich the taste. Try tossing in cooked chicken or shrimp to make a light entree, or serve as a side to grilled pork, steak or tofu.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: This light crunchy salad is especially pretty with assorted rainbow carrots. You can make it a few hours or even a day ahead. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 garlic clove

• 1 tsp. honey

• 2 tbsp. fresh lime juice

• 2 tbsp. sesame or sunflower oil

• Pinch red pepper flakes

• 1/2 lb. carrots, coarsely chopped

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro or parsley

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh mint

• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Directions

To make the dressing: Smash the garlic with the flat blade of a knife and transfer it to a small bowl. Add the ginger, honey and lime, and whisk in the sunflower oil. Season with the red pepper flakes.

Nutrition information per each of 6 servings:

Calories65Fat5 gSodium30 mg

Carbohydrates6 gSaturated fat1 gTotal sugars3 g

Protein1 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 1 fat.